Ralph Rucci Coat Vogue Pattern 1419

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I saw this Vogue pattern awhile back and thought “ooh that’s cute”. So kept looking at it until it went on sale and then said, ok. After which I searched for anyone who has made this coat before for tips and found this awesome sew-a-long through Lladybird and McCall. I hope to have mine finished before the end of the month but that will all depend on when I receive the fabrics I ordered and how much time it will actually take me to make this coat. Going for perfection since I did end up spending a bit more than originally anticipated… I had found some cheap gabardine through the online fabric store and then after receiving it realized it was a very light weight polyester which would not do at all. So I went a hunting and found these beauties.

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The pieces somewhat together minus the navy charmeuse.

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Found this gorgeous navy blue wool/polyester medium weight garbardine fabric through Mood Fabrics. And I received an email today that stated it has shipped!

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And then I found this gorgeous and fun rayon fabric to use for the lining. So excited! This was found through fabric.com. My original plan was a blue plaid flannel and then someone mentioned using a fabric that will make the coat easy to put on and take off. And voila!

The button holes and inside seams will be lined with a navy blue charmeuse similar in color to the navy gabardine and it was purchased through the Online Fabric Store.

Then I will put a layer of Thinsulate in between the outer garbardine and the inner rayon to add a layer of warmth to make this a nice winter coat. The Thinsulate was purchased through Textile Fabrics here in Nashville. Also for any locals they are having a sale on all fabric with everything 40% off. Unfortunately this did not include interfacings.

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And last but not least the buttons! Also purchased through Textile Fabrics. Saw these shell buttons and thought they would make perfect accents to the coat’s navy color.

In the mean time while I was sourcing different fabrics and determining if I wanted an inner layer of warm fabric and underlining, etc. I have already managed to create my trial mock-up coat out of leftover muslins and suit fabric. Due to being a DD, I decided to go with the next size up and just take in the waist a bit. I put the pieces together using the 5/8″ seam and it almost needed no adjustments! Sorting out piece #4 was a little tricky, the little triangle piece that attaches to the side panel and the sleeve pieces. It was all puckery but a quick snip to the inside fabric resolved this issue perfectly. Not 100% on how the seam binding will affect it yet but overall compared to making suits this coat won’t be nearly as difficult. No pad-stitching and way less pieces! It’ll take some time to pre-sew all the layers of fabric together to make the construction process easier but worth it I’m sure. Below are some photos of the muslin proto-type on my dress dummy. You can see the under sleeve triangle piece I was talking about in the first photo.

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