This dress turned out AMAZING!!! This is McCall 6924 and my sewing project of the 2015 Outfit-A-Long. I am still working on knitting the cardigan…only 1 more sleeve!
The pattern is listed as “easy”. I’m not sure I would classify it as easy, perhaps more advanced beginner or average. There is a super cute cutout in the back with piping along the neckline and arm holes. Then in the back there is a snap closure for the upper back, hook and eye and invisible zipper. The instructions were great but I still made a few changes.
I used a cotton voile from fabric.com for the exterior fabric, crepe from Jo-Ann’s for the underlining, and a nice Bemberg lining from fabric.com.
Did my usual full bust adjustment for the upper front. I took the front piece from the waist and up and added an overall 2″. This tutorial by Colette is a great starting point. Basically to find your initial size you measure your high bust then add the inches for the cup size of the pattern. For example McCall patterns are designed for a B cup, so they add 2″ to the high bust. In this case my high bust was 35″ plus the 2″ for a B cup made me a 37″ pattern bust size. Went with my usual size 14 with McCall patterns which is for a size 36″ bust, 28″ waist, and 38″ hip. My measurements are a 39″ bust, 30″ waist, and 41″ hip. Because the dress is fitted through the bust and waist and flares out at the hips I was fine using a size 14. So back to the FBA. Because my actual bust is 39″ I had to add another 2″ to the pattern (39 -37 = 2), so 1″ to the pattern piece as it is cut on the fold. Then I just followed Colette’s tutorial as well as taking into account my bust measurements taken using the book How To Make Sewing Patterns by Donald McCunn. Such a great resource, especially for how to take your measurements. I also used Joi Mahon’s bust fitting technique as seen in the July Threads Magazine. Between all of these resources I created a great fit! Definitely required making a muslin first.
And this dress has the other best thing. Pockets!!! This pattern calls to use pocket facings on one side so you can’t see the lining when you stick your hand in the pocket.
Another great feature is: no interfacing. Not a single piece anywhere. The dress used an underlining to create structure for the dress and is then lined. The pattern calls for using 2″ wide horsehair braid but as I couldn’t find any local and didn’t want to wait for an order I decided to skip this step and simply use the same narrow hem for the lining as I used for the exterior fabric. I may re-do the hem on the underlined fabric though as the voile and crepe didn’t match up so well, should have used fabric spray to stick the layers together better.
Adding the piping was pretty easy using a zipper foot. And isn’t that cut out so cute?!?!?
I spent so much time on the interior lining i had to show it off. That Bemberg feels so nice. Definitely adds an air of higher quality to the equally amazing feeling cotton voile, :). Overall the instructions were really well written and easy to follow.
And of course plenty of photos with the dress on. I want to wear this every day now, haha. It’s so comfortable, the fit is perfect, and it has pockets. The other small change I made was to do french seams on the pockets to hopefully prevent them from tearing and used my overcasting stitch feature on all the inner seams.
And always take a moment to stop and smell the flowers, :).