WIP Vogue 8333/8543 Suit: Cutting and Pattern Adjustments

Woo hoo! Slowly making progress! I’ve begun the arduous process of cutting all the pieces out: fabric, lining, interfacings… Sometimes I’m tempted to pay someone else, ;). I’ve only managed the fabric pieces thus far and have decided to make the skirt first, then the jacket.

I’ve also decided that if I am going to spend all this time and energy making a muslin I may as well attempt to make it a wearable one. I discovered I had about 5 yards of this tan striped cheap polyester suiting fabric in my stash and a few yards of this gorgeous teal polyester charmeuse for the lining. I think that teal will look gorgeous inside the jacket.

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So the fun began… IMG_2307

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And I discovered….all the current pieces will fit within 3.5 yards!!! Which means I literally have JUST enough of my gorgeous navy wool for this project, ;). I believe I have the necessary suit adjustments completed on the pattern, possibly may need to alter the shoulder and perhaps take into account a sway back. Will know more once I start putting the fabric pieces of the suit together.

Another change I decided to make upon reflection of reading other seamstresses’ attempts at the skirt is to add a self fabric waist band facing on the skirt. Also, piece #13 is mislabeled. It is not a jacket piece, ;). I have made enough projects with the lining flush with the waistband that I know the lining tends to become visible from time to time and if I am going to spend the time making an expensive suit, that just won’t do.

The front waistband facing was easy since the lining piece is the same as the outside fabric. So instead of cutting 1 fabric and 1 lining, I just cut 2 of the fabric. Easy peasy. The back waistband took some more thought. As one can see, the way the back pieces are pieced together makes just tracing the top a little tricky.

 

So I took the middle back piece and one of the side back pieces and marked the seam lines. Per 1 piece the finished waist is 29.5″, so to make it fit my 30″ waist better I am making all of the seams 1/2″ instead of 5/8″ inch which should add 1″ to the finished pattern pieces, or be 30.5″ in the end. Perfect. So I marked off the 1/2″ seam allowances, lined up the side back with the middle back and traced from the center back line to the end of the side piece like this:

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I drew a straight line for the center back portion (the end that will placed on the fold). Then using the front facing as an example, I curve the bottom line to maintain a 3 3/4″ width along the new piece and cut out one on the fold. I will need to make adjustments to the lining portions but overall this should work out quite nicely.

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