Such a great pattern! These are the Iris Shorts pattern by Colette. I looked at the sizing and decided I was between a 10 and a 12 so I made a size “11”. So I traced out a new size by tracing between the size 10 and 12 pattern lines. Thought was, this will be perfect! Nope. I should have remeasured my waist and hips as I seem to have gained a little extra volume… The shorts seemed to be fitting fine until I got to the “add waistband” step, nope, was not going to work. Thus I realized 2 things:
1) I really have a 32″ waist, not 31″.
2) I have a bit of a longer crotch curve and should have added about 2″ to the length for the waistband to hit at the right spot.
So I took the side seams apart and the waistband off and put in the smallest seams possible, maybe 1/4″, and yes, barely fits now. Definitely looks good but still a bit more snug than I’d prefer. I put in 1/4″ seam allowances in the waist band seams as well which added the necessary 1″ of height to make them mid-waist per the pattern. Not bad for the trial pair made out of cheap leftover polyester suiting. If I had used a stretch fabric they would probably be perfect, but for non-stretch fabrics I think I would go ahead and use a size 12 or 14.
Colette’s patterns have wonderful instructions and her blog has great advice on different techniques to use as well. I made these seams using her mock flat seam tutorial. Looks amazing. And some people have said how the shorts’ inseams are too short but they are perfect for me. I do have an idea to make these into straight leg pants at some point though…
And pockets! They are a little weird so far forward but I love the look. And another chance to use some pink guitar fabric cotton, ;).
And my front seams are barely even noticeable even using the mock flat seams, :).
I didn’t even need to make any changes to the back darts, :). I used her method of hand tying the knots rather than back stitching to secure the ends.
Also, Colette’s advise on attaching the waist band is spot on. You sew the interfaced portion on first, then when sewing the inside facing to the top, you attach it to the invisible zipper to the inside of the zipper which makes it all look so nice. Then you under stitch the facing and stitch in the ditch to attach the bottom of the facing. In the end it all looks really good and the instructions are easy to follow.
Due to the fabric choice, I overcast all of the edges of the shorts pattern pieces as well which took FOREVER. I really need a serger… Maybe for Christmas, ;).
And I love the length of the inseam, perfect for me. Next time I make these I will lengthen out the crotch curve a bit for my long torso and deepen the back curve for my behind to fit better and less chance of wedgies, ;). I’ll have to look in my stash to see if I have any other scraps around 1 yard to make pair #2. Even though these shorts aren’t perfect, they still make a great wearable muslin, :).
So in the end these shorts get a thumbs up!
Too bad I can’t wear these to work! This is a nice side angle shot so you can see those pockets. These are going to be great for these final months of Nashville summer.
Another view from behind at a different angle. You can see what I mean about needing to adjust the crotch curve more. Shorts/Pants are tough! I loved this pattern though, it’s my second Colette pattern and I am a fan. My next project is her Clover pants, :).