So I finally got around to making this skirt! It’s the skirt off the Vogue 8543 suit pattern. LOVE the lines of this skirt and had read mixed reviews of the pattern. Honestly, I only halfway read the instructions and put it together using my own methods. The directions weren’t all that great anyway.
This is going to be a part of my fancy wool suit but I wanted to make sure my ideas would work out before cutting into the nice stuff. Per a previous post I should have just enough wool to complete it, :). For the trial skirt I used this cheap polyester suiting from Jo-Ann’s I had in my stash and gorgeous teal polyester charmeuse. Omg, LOVE this charmeuse. It feels so nice and the color is gorgeous. I’m glad that at least people will be able to see it when I make the jacket, ;).
First thing, piece 13 is mislabeled as “middle jacket back”. Nope, middle back skirt piece. Easy enough to figure out. Then I didn’t like that the skirt didn’t have self waistband facings. Nothing worse than having lining poking up from under the waistband. The front waistband facing was easy to do, instead of cutting the inner waistband piece out of lining I cut it out of the exterior fabric like pretty much any other pattern. Then for the back band I traced out a new piece using the front piece and middle back/side back pieces as guides and then taking that excess off the original lining piece.
First I traced off a half piece (as I will cut it out along the fold) using the center of the middle back piece and the side piece as guides for shape. I also measured out the depth of the front band facing pieces so it would match up better on the sides.
Here is a photo of both the front and back waistband facings.
And then because I made a new piece for the back waistband, I had to take this off of the original lining piece.
Because I was in between the sizes 14 and 16, I used 1/2″ seams for the seams that go up and down leaving the more decorative seams at the 5/8″ seam. I originally did these as 1/2″ seams as well but they gave the skirt a weird pouffy look so I went ahead and made them 5/8″ seams. Then I went off pattern again. Instead of waiting to the end to hem everything, I hemmed the lining and exterior skirts before attaching the two pieces together. This made the process a little easier except I did make one error in putting the back skirt lining pieces together. I had forgotten to put the markings on the lining pieces and didn’t leave an opening in the back lining piece for a vent. So I took it apart and put one in…except I did this to the side seam and not the back seam. Oops! But it’s ok. I’ll remember to do this correctly for the nice skirt.
The other major change I made was when putting in the invisible zipper. I used Colette’s invisible zipper method and also used her method for attaching the interior lining to the zipper. I discovered this through her pants and shorts patterns and it is so much easier than slip stitching the lining to the zipper, it also just looks so much nicer too. Those steps can be seen during the Clover pants sew-a-long here or Lladybird’s photo tutorial of the process here.
When attaching the lining to the zipper I stitched the lining to the zipper I pinned the pieces together and stitched it just a little further over in the seam to allow the zipper to zip up and down easier.
And voila, a very pretty invisible zipper on both the inside and outside, :). My seams are a little off throughout this first make due to small errors here and there but not too bad.
I don’t think the wrinkles will be there on he navy wool version, this polyester fabric is pretty light weight and wrinkles easily.
I look like I smelled something bad, haha. But look at that side view! Such cute pleats and great lines and shape, :).
And the back view of course. Again, LOVE those pleats! And the shape is so flattering.
And another back view. I feel like people never post enough pics of the back, for review purposes of course, ;).
Now onto the suit jacket!!!