I decided to take a break from bra making and make my second pair of Colette Clover pants. The first pair I made (here) were my wearable muslin. So of course I thought I had all the fitting issues resolved. Nope. Turns out that polyester spandexes are not all created equal even when they are right next to each other in the fabric store. That mix was WAY stretchier than this mix. I did not do the stretch test on either fabric when purchasing which was my error. So the first pair was WAY too big and the second pair were a bit small. Maybe a future 3rd pair will be just right like in Goldilocks and the Three Bears, haha. Overall this pair fits well after I made a few changes:
- I took out the outside seams 1/8″, basically giving me an additional 1/4″ per leg for additional wearing ease.
- I took the front seam/crotch in about 1/2″ at the front to get rid of some weird puckering lines and made the curve more straight. This fixed the front, yay!
- The back is still a bit confining. Basically I needed to add about 1″ back rise. I lowered the crotch about a 3/8″ and had added a 1/4″ full butt adjustment, but it wasn’t enough.
I’ll go over the pair a bit. This is the Colette pattern step in attaching the waistband facing to the interfaced outside piece. It’s a little tricky to fully comprehend. It tells you to fold over the zipper part and stitch the top then trim the seam. This is what it looks like. I then overcast all of my edges.
The inside looks very pretty. I overcast every seam using my Brother cs6000i. I stitched the ditch all around the waistband per the instructions to attach the bottom portion of the waistband to the inside. MUCH easier than hand stitching it down! Also to make it easier for myself I made the pockets out of the same fabric. Helps with making them appear invisible from the front.
And that zipper!!! This is my 4th invisible zipper using the Colette method and it gets better every time. I also overcast the edges of the fabric and zipper together to prevent fraying. This time I stitched up the side seam until the marking of the end of the zipper. Next time I will follow the instructions of doing this last.
And a photo of the beautiful nearly invisible pockets! This is just one side. I didn’t do a very good job of matching up my stripes but that’s ok.
And they are functional pockets! I can fit my whole iPhone 5s in there, :). Unfortunately black pants don’t photograph the fine details very well.
Side view looks fantastic.
Front view looks pretty good too, :).
Another of the front with those normal wrinkle lines for movement.
It’s difficult to get good photos of details with dark fabric but this is a pretty good one of the back. Overall, really good fit. I did a small full butt adjustment of about 1/4″ but maybe should have made that more of 1/2″ plus raise the back rise about 1″.
Per this photo you can see a bit of the work that goes with making a full or flat butt adjustment. That yellow line is the one I should have raised about 1″ to make these pants perfect. More details on this process here through the Clover pants sew a long. An amazing resource!
And a fun pic! Overall I really like these pants. They fit pretty well, are comfy, and a nice easy pattern. Colette patterns are so great to follow!