A Dahlia for Fall

Yay! I LOVE this new dress!!! I’ve had a fall Dahlia in mind for a while now and for my birthday I ordered this lovely purple wool suiting fabric from Mood Fabrics. I accidentally pre-washed it since I was in a pre-washing fabrics mood. Oops! At least it was on delicate and in cold water so no harm. I then purchased Bemberg lining in blackberry from Jo-Ann’s. Bemberg is an amazing lining if you don’t want to spend the extra on silk. It has a nice feel and breathes nicely. The color went perfect with my Dahlia, :).

I did my usual FBA (full bust adjustment) using Colette’s tutorial through her sew-a-long. An AMAZING resource. Give a pictorial step by step process and added advice over the whole dress making process for both versions. I also added 3″ of length to the skirt pieces to make it longer for the colder weather. The only other changes I made were to take in the sleeve seams a bit to keep the shoulders from sliding down and to get the pouf out of the back. Next time I should just take this out of the pattern as I had to do that for version 2 too. I pinched out an extra 1/4″ for each front neck/sleeve seam and 1/2″ for each of the back. Perfect! Then after putting together the wool exterior I basically made a complete second dress out of the lining.

Instead of purchasing binding I decided to make my own using the wool suiting. Wool is not press friendly! I made 3/8″ double fold binding, so I started out cutting 1.5″ wide strips using this tutorial by Sew 4 Home. I just could not sort out the continuous bias tape method but this one worked great for me. To press it was a process.

  1. First I cut out and sewed the strips together
  2. Then I pinned the bias tape so it was double folding in along one big strip since I don’t have a bias tape maker
  3. Then I pressed it on high heat, then put my wood pieces over the pressed part and pushed down until the heat was gone. I did this a few times removing pins as I went until there were no pins left along the strip and I had a good crease

And look at that lovely binding!

Hand stitching it to the lining took a bit of work but it was worth every second as it looks so much better than just haphazardly slip stitching it. Colette describes how to do 5 different hand stitches here.

The stuffing of the lining and attaching it to the zipper was a little tricky but Devon explains the whole process really well in the install zipper portion of the sew a long. You can see how lovely this turned out below.


And my self-made bias taped neck line!

My invisible zipper is almost perfect. I just could not get the bottom yoke pieces to line up. I gave up after 3 tries and called it good enough.

The kickpleat

I got my other yoke bands to line up perfectly!

Had to show off the lovely lining.

And my perfect hand stitching, ;).

Made with Mood tag! Working on creating my own tags. It’s a tricky process! Ordered some special color fast printer friendly fabric sheets to give it a go later this week.  

Another of my gorgeous lining that no one will ever see.

And of course some of me wearing the dress. Have I mentioned how much I love this dress?!?! The purple is gorgeous, the fabric feels wonderful, and the fit is perfect, :).

I tried to get a good view of the back.

And a fun explorer type pose. Shows there is lots of movement to the skirt!

And another fun pose, 🙂


3 thoughts on “A Dahlia for Fall

  1. Pingback: Dahlia in Polka Dots | HazelJae Designs

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