BurdaStyle 11/2014 #121: The Mock Up


I saw this dress pattern and my immediate thought was: “I have to make this”. The style, the shape, the color, it’s all so perfect for me and my body shape. This is Burdastyle’s Hourglass Lace Gown, 11/2014 #121. Absolutely stunning. I have Googled this dress and have found so little blogged about it which surprised me as there is a sew-along you can purchase here for $19.99. I can understand why now as the instructions have no photo illustrations and are basically 1 page long of text. After some mock ups I think I figured it out. There is one part about using “fabric strips” that I don’t quite fully comprehend but I think these are basically like seam tape, just a way to reinforce the seams. I did find several submissions for this dress on Russian BurdaStyle and a few French blogs.

So I read the instructions multiple times and traced out my pattern pieces and added my seam allowances (so time consuming!). I made a few errors in putting together mock-up 1 but now I better understand how to put the dress together. I went with the size 44 according to my measurements. I should always know better, if it’s a commercial pattern go down a size!!! Commercial patterns always add too much ease in my opinion. Overall the first mock up went well and was fairly easy to put together. I decided to just work with the lining pieces so I could better adjust any fitting issues as the exterior fabric has lots of gathers. Don’t mind the colors, just using up some fabric stash, ;). Used my crepe back satin pieces to get an idea of the size and structure since I’ll be using crepe. I did not cut the lace panels out of lace. I did notice some of my notches didn’t line up right.

As you can see the overall fit looks pretty good in the bust but basically it is just too big everywhere else. So I went back and retraced the next size down, a 42. Wasn’t too bad since majority of the pieces have one side that is the same for all sizes, so only had to fix one side of the pieces, :). Adding in seam allowances is such a pain.

Mock up 1


This time I used some red satin scraps, went down to a size 42, and added a 3.5″ full bust adjustment. As you can see, a much better fit! Basically I just need to take 1/2″ out of the bust adjustment and change the placement of the shoulder yokes and I’ll be good. I won’t be making a 3rd mock up since those adjustments are pretty minor. I’ll need to tighten it up here and there but overall a pretty good fit now, :). The waist fits MUCH better now. I might make the lining a little longer, not sure. It’s probably fine as is.

Mock up 2

Here is the tissue paper mock up showing the adjustments. I added the bulk of the 3″ adjustment to the top bust portion. As for the FBA I didn’t follow a specific tutorial. I found my bust apex using the top bust piece and drew the usual 4 quadrant lines and added 1.5″ of width and 1″ of length to the top bust portion and just 1.5″ of width to the center middle front pieces.

Dress paper pattern adjustment

And mock-up 2 next to the original pattern. As mine is just the lining portion it’s not an exact comparison but pretty close as far as the bust pieces go. I have the same basic shape and once I fix the shoulder yokes I should even be able to wear a bra under it, :). The pattern calls for batting and interfacing, so should be a pretty sturdy dress. I don’t think I will bother with the fabric strips as I plan to use my new fancy serger to finish the seams, yay!

Mock up 2 vs Original

I will be making my dress black as well and have purchased black crepe and lace from Jo-Ann’s casa collection as well as white chiffon as they did not carry the recommended Georgette fabric for the lace panels backing. They did not have beige in stock so I dyed it using Lipton iced tea mix. Basically I get hot water, soak about 5 tea bags per quart, soaked the fabric in there for about 10 minutes then rinsed with cold water and left to dry. As you can see, the now tea colored chiffon is pretty close to my natural color, ;). I’ve adjusted all of my pattern pieces and now I get to cut out the good fabric!

Black lace


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