I’ve made this dress before and loved it but sadly is too small now, was made 3 years ago. So long the pattern isn’t even in print anymore. Originally I had made McCall 6749 in Version C, a very sweet short summery dress. This time I decided to make Version D, the long maxi length version of this dress. It is listed as an easy pattern and it really is fairly easy, just very time consuming with adding all of the lace accents.
The original I made was very pretty but I didn’t do the best job of matching up the lace accents on the back.
I went ahead and made a mock-up first to ensure a good fit since my size has changed so much. The first time I made this dress I didn’t know about FBAs (full bust adjustments) and now that I do I added about 4″ to the bust. I just added 2″ to each side. I had already cut out the size 14 pieces (this was back before I traced out patterns) but this was the largest size anyway and actually ended up fitting very well using 1/2″ side seams but using 5/8″ everywhere else.
My original plan was a nice emerald or hunter green but then I ended up wanting navy. I couldn’t find the 100% rayon voile in the color I wanted so I bought some white and dyed it navy blue using Procion mx dyes in the sink method. Next time I will use the washing machine method! It took about 3 hours to dye 4 yards of fabric. But it was worth it and the color turned out gorgeous. Then I found this beautiful 1 1/4″ wide pale yellow lace which accented it perfectly, :). Look at the lace with the blue. So pretty! And the rayon flows wonderfully. I did change the placement of the lace over the bust portions, rather than run over the middle of the bust seams. They are slightly off to the sides of the bust seams to match up with the straps and bottom band better.
I worked very hard to match all of the lace up. The zipper took me about 2 hours but the lace matches perfectly. After I had the zipper in I realized the back top lace strips didn’t match in distance from the bottom band of lace around the waist. I had forgotten to attach the lace along the placement lines on the middle back piece before stitching the back pieces to the side pieces as the pattern instructions neglect this step even though the lace placement lines are on the pattern. So I put them on before inserting the zipper but didn’t check before putting the zipper in. So after the zipper was in and so perfect I undid the lace and re-placed it along the lines so they were more of an even distance from the band of lace at the waist. So much better!
In my original version I left the straps as just lace per the instructions but I decided I wanted something a little wider and sturdier this time so I created straps of fabric that were 1.5″ wide with the lace accents in the middle and attaching them as part of the attaching the lining process so the insides would remain pretty and be more secure. After I added the straps I ended up taking the whole top apart to fix some fitting issues but it was worth it!
And adding that ruffle!!! This was the most time consuming of the entire project. First I had to sew two lines of basting in order to gather the ruffle, place the gathers evenly, pin to the bottom of the dress, and then after it was attached putting the lace trim around it, then hemming! I ended up hemming it 3″ and using a blind hem. The dress is a bit wrinkly in the photo from packing it but you can still see how even the gathers are, :).
I used Bemberg rayon for the lining, feels so nice. I pretty much only use Bemberg rayon these days unless I am lining with silk or want a fun polyester print. Always a plus when the lining looks great too! Just ignore the bad pressing.
I took a trip to DC over the weekend and was able to get some nice photos of me taken in my new dress, :). Was just a tad windy. Love it! One of new faves, :).