I’ve been wanting to make a bikini with a foam cup bra top and hadn’t gotten around to trying one of my bra patterns yet. Then I saw the Sophie Swimsuit by Closet Case Patterns and I just knew I needed to have it. Loved the top and the high waist bikini bottoms and the slimming style of the color blocking option.
Ordered my floral print from The Fabric Fairy. Amazing selection of fabrics, was so hard to chose! The navy I had leftover from another project, I’d post a link but Fabric.com no longer carries it, :(. Was the Enso swimsuit Lycra or something like that. I thought it paired perfectly with the floral. Closet Case patterns recommends bra lining in the cradle of the top but as I didn’t have any, I used some supplex from a bra I had made which was pretty un-stretchy. As for thread I just used polyester and serged all of the inside seams. I already had extra long size 44 underwires in my stash and picked up some 3/8″ swimwear elastic from Jo-Ann’s and had an S hook from making my last swimsuit. The lining was also from Jo-Ann’s: swimsuit lining. And I ordered power mesh from The Fabric Fairy for the front center panel of the bottoms.
Heather does an amazing job with the instructions and has a video tutorial ($49 but includes a PDF version of the pattern) for anyone who wants a little extra.
Now the top was a little tricky for me as I was outside the cup range and her advice on increasing the cup size didn’t work for me. I ended up tracing the pattern size for a wire line 44 (size 20 cup #2) and grading the width out to a size 20 cup #5. It’s still a little small but pretty close!
Here is an image of my paper pattern pieces showing the original size 20 cup #2 size and the rest is the cup #5 I graded it out to. Basically I just traced the size 44 wire and then tilted the paper to add out to the wire size 50 line.
I just need to either widen the straps or place them further in. As is they cause the top of the cups to gape a bit and not withstand swimming so well (fall down a bit).