Future Couture Suit Jacket and Bra Making Plans

  
So I’ve had both Vogue 8333 and 8543 in my pattern stash for some time. I even had the fabric picked out and ordered for 8543, but then the online store didn’t really have the fabric and the order was cancelled, :(. Well our local Textile Fabrics is still having their now moving sale (moving not closing now, yay!) with all fabrics 60% off! So I found a gorgeous navy wool suiting fabric, light gray silk lining, and grayish silk organza for the underlining. And my future plans changed. Now I want to make the Vogue 8333 version A couture suit jacket paired with the Vogue 8543 skirt. I think they will work well together and just pray I have enough of the wool! Original plan of the jacket and skirt of 8543 only required 3.25 yards and I got 3.5 to have a little extra. The new plan requires 3 yards and 5/8 yard, 1/8 more than I have. Hoping I have enough! I usually don’t use the full allotment, so fingers crossed!

The navy wool and light gray lining:  

First step: FBA adjustment and pattern trial. I went with a size 14 as Vogue tends to run larger and I preferred a more fitted suit jacket. As my upper bust is 34, I added the 2″ B cup pattern allotment and got 36″. Size 14 uses a 36″ bust so perfect. Then I just needed to add the difference between my full bust (39″) and the pattern full bust (36″) which is 3″, or 1.5″ per side. I matched the center front of the front pattern piece with my center front and the shoulder seam with my shoulder seam so I could mark my bust apex on the pattern. Please disregard my terrible drawing skills!

  
Once I had this new spot, I then drew a vertical line parallel with the front center line through the new apex and a horizontal line parallel with the waist line through the new apex. Now I had 4 quadrants which I labeled.

  
I cut apart the lines leaving a hinge at the shoulder seam and the bottom hem line. As this piece used princess seams I also separated the side front piece into two pieces through the waist line but leaving the paper attached just a bit at the side as a hinge. I labeled these 4 (left top), 3 (right top, 2 (left bottom, and 1 (right bottom). I first taped down quadrant 3 to a piece of tracing paper. Then I measured out a vertical line to the left side of this quadrant 3 piece 1.5″ out and a horizontal line to the bottom 1.5″ down. I matched up quadrant 1 (bottom right piece) to the horizontal line keeping it parallel to the top right piece and taped it down. Then I moved Quadrant 4 out so the bottom right corner matched up with the vertical line while staying even with quadrant 3 along the bottom. Then matched up quadrant 2 to both the vertical and horizontal lines keeping it parallel to both the top left piece and the bottom right piece. Then did the same with the side piece. After everything was placed correctly I taped everything down.

  
Then I pinned all the seam allowances together to “try” half the jacket on. Pretty good for! I’ll have a lot of couture methods to learn and sort out as I go along with this project. I’m excited! 

Better pics taken while on my dress double:   

   

The other major project on my list is: making my first bra!

After my disappointment of being unable to find a strapless bra at Victoria’s Secret that fit right I decided to finally delve into this realm.

I’ve purchased the Kindle version of Orange Lingerie founder Norma Loehr’s book Demystifying Bra Fitting and Construction. So far has been full of super useful advice. I have plans to purchase her newest pattern, the Boylston bra as well. I feel that this is the best pattern for my 34DD size and best option for attempting a strapless version. Still researching fabrics, etc. 

 

Obviously I have my work cut out for me for a bit, ;).

 

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Vogue 8888 Finished Slip

Turned out really well! Per my previous post I did a FBA and used the slip D size 14. I am a 38-31-42 for reference. I made a few changes such as using lace by the yard due to inability to find scalloped edged lace. So I basted each piece of lace to each piece of satin. I also lost piece 15 so I didn’t do the seam binding on the front and did a regular seam and overcast it on the inside like the cups. I also did a blind hem.

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This is of the slip on me with the me parts whited out, love pic apps!

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And a photo of the slip on my dress dummy, :).

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And the back. I had to take the back in a little too.

Vogue 8888 Slip FBA

So I have attempted my first FBA, full bust adjustment. And I think it has gone ok. Usually I just go up a size and adjust the darts from there. I looked all over but couldn’t find anything specific to making a FBA on a slip top like this where the cup is in 2 pieces, so I used Gertie’s FBA for her slip as a starting point and just kind of slashed the pieces at the same level on both sides as can be seen in the following pics. I then spread the pieces apart by 1″. Basically using the guideline of adding 1/2″ for each additional cup size. Patterns are usually a B so I made this one aiming for a D, I’m really a DD so probably could have added another 1/2″.

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Then because I couldn’t find 9″ wide lace with a scalloped edge at Jo-Ann’s I went with lace by the yard and am basting the lace and fabric pieces together before sewing the pieces together as shown below.

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And voila, I have the top two bodice/cup pieces made for slip in View D. The pattern can be found at Vogue here. I seem to have lost my piece 15 so I haven’t decided if I will make the seam binding between the cups and yoke…wouldn’t be that hard to sort out the dimensions of the piece that would be needed so may still do it. So far I’m thinking this should be a fairly easy project, not too many pieces and already have the “top” made. Hope to finish the rest soon!

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