Aurora Tank

I’ve subscribed to Seamwork Mag for a few months now but haven’t had a chance to make anything yet. Finally got around to putting the Aurora tank together and wow, was super easy and quick! I used a rayon jersey so could have been quicker…but overall I see more in my future as summer running tanks. I have a cute cat print on an easier to work with knit I plan to make next. It’s such a flattering design. If anyone is interested in subscribing to Seamwork Mag, if you use my code you can get half off your first month! Just click this link, :). A subscription is pretty awesome, each issue has great articles and for only $6/month (with my link the first one is only $3!) you get 2 patterns, and you can pick any of the patterns from the start of Seamwork, not just that month’s patterns. And you can cancel anytime and keep your patterns. I think I am about 3 months in, ;).
Back to the review, ;). Per reading other posts I was more of a medium on the chart but decided to cut out inbetween a medium and large size. Turned out great but a tad wide in the shoulders so I think I’ll just do a straight medium next time.

It’s only 3 pattern pieces, the front, back, and yoke which you cut two of. So the hardest part is attaching the yoke to the front straps, which really wasn’t difficult except for the fact my fabric was slippery and didn’t want to cooperate with me. Love rayon jersey for running shirts though. It has a nice, lightweight feel, :). My measurements are 40″ bust, 31″ waist, 42″ hips. And nope, no need for a full bust adjustment with this one!

 


Unfortunately with the busy pattern you can’t see the cute pleat detail I the upper back under the yoke.


Definitely making more!

Simplicity 2172 Steampunk Dress: The Bustier


Ever since I laid eyes on this pattern I knew I had to make it. When I learned of this Time Traveller’s Ball coming up in Nashville I decided this was the perfect opportunity. So finally found Simplicity 2172 in my sizing (size 14) and decided to start with the bustier thinking it would be pretty “easy”. Construction steps were fairly easy but definitely not quick!

I am more of a 34G than a 34B so I went with the 14 for the bustier and my usual full bust adjustment changes using this great tutorial on FBAs on princess seams by Vogue. I only used the front and middle center pieces for the FBA and left the side front panels as is other than the additional 1/2″ I added to the waist length throughout the entire corset. After careful measurements I also decided this was a good size because it would allow me the 0″ ease recommend for corsets with a zipper rather than adjustable lacing in the back. The pattern allows for 2″ of ease, so heads up on if you want this to be more of a corset or more of a fitted top. Because the finished measurements are 38″ for the size 14 chest and mine is about 41″, only needed to do a 3″ FBA (full bust adjustment).

So I made a muslin first of course and it was nearly a perfect fit, so a few adjustments later I was ready to begin! The only other change I made other than the 3″ FBA (full bust adjustment), was to add 1/2″ of length to the torso.


The pattern calls for light weight interfacing and plastic feather lite boning but I wanted mine to be sturdier so I used Pellon 101 shape flex and spiral steel boning. I ordered a roll of about 10 yards and definitely need to invest in better cutters! But I managed with what I had and got my 9 pieces cup and capped. For my channeling I used some twill tape I had in my stash and lined the corset with Bemberg. I used 5/8″ seams for everything but the top connection of the lining to the exterior fabric. For this I used a 1/2″ seam for additional height and coverage.

Had to snap a pic of the inside guts! Look how pretty those channels are, :).

Cutting the steel boning with jewelry clippers was not easy but I managed. Definitely will be investing in better wire cutters! Putting the end caps on took some trial and error but I figured it out. Looks so great!

Then I sewed some 3/8″ Pearl like plastic buttons to the front spaced 1″ apart. I ended up using 13.

For the lining I used Bemberg but ran out of blue, hence the 2 bits of black. I kind of like it.

And voila. A beautiful corset that will look fantastic with my costume but great with a pair of pants too, :). The pants are my Clovers. The sides at the top ended up being a tad big but nothing major. If I make another one I will shave off another 1/4″ off each side seam towards the top bust portion. Fits great with my strapless bra.

I’ll be adding a hook and and eye to the top. For some reason when I looked in my stash all I have is 4 hooks and no eyes. Not sure how that happened as they are sold in pairs, haha.

Back view

Side view.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And another front shot. I love this fabric and think the fit turned out fantastic, :).

Just finishing up the matching vest for my boyfriend, just needs buttons. Then onto the skirt!

Gertie’s Halter Top

Going along with my Vintage pledge to make more vintagey items and try some more of Gertie’s patterns. I went ahead and tried my hand at her Halter Top in her book Gertie Sews Vintage Casual.

I had some trouble sorting out how to fit the bra cups portion of this top. I ended up splitting the bottom cup in 2 and adding about 2″ in my attempt at a full bust adjustment. It’s still not perfect but overall pretty good. I made the size 10 from her book using some Gertie floral fabric of course! It had some stretch so I opted to not put in a zipper and with the shirring on the sides I didn’t need one, :). Sorting out the fitting of the cups took me about 5 trials, but the rest of the tank was pretty easy and had it together in a few hours. Love my serger!

I decided to make mine a tank instead of a halter by adding about 4″ to each strap. Finding the correct placement was a little tricky but not too bad. I plan to just wear a strapless bra with it anyway.

I had just enough fabric left over from making my pencil skirt posted here but not enough for the cup lining so I used some dark blue Bemberg lining for the cup lining and used sew in fleece instead of iron on. Looks pretty good. The instructions were easy to follow and due to the nature of the fabric fraying I serged all of the seams.

inside top

Look at those beautiful seams and all of that shirring!!! The shirring actually went along pretty quick since I didn’t start and end each row individually as per her instructions.

serged seams

Still working on getting the placement of the straps but I think it looks pretty good and is perfect for summer! Looks great with my new Ginger Flares, ;).

tank

So Sew Easy Cowl Neck Sleeveless Top

So excited about this shirt! This is a pattern by So Sew Easy available here which can be purchased through Craftsy for $5.95 and she also has a free video tutorial on her site too.

I had some leftover fabric I purchased from fabric.com for another Pneuma tank and really wanted to make a work shirt out of it. The front and back pieces were just a little too big for my leftover fabric so I cut them in half and voila, enough fabric!


The instructions are great and this sews up quick, I didn’t even read the instructions for most of the construction due to its simplicity. I opted to not add the back facing or shoulder facings and instead just did narrow hems so had I had more fabric this would have only been 2 pieces. I also hemmed the rough edge of the cowl. Other than using 1/2″ seams for the sides I made no adjustments to the size 4 (blue line) I cut out other than the 1″ I took off the bottom of each piece.


As seen above you can see the stitch lines of where I separated the top and bottom sections. In the original pattern this isn’t necessary as long as you purchased enough fabric.

I neatened up my seems using a stretch overcast stitch and rolling the hems in twice accept for the cowl neck, just rolled that hem in once. I put in about a 1″ hem on the bottom, I didn’t measure it so not 100% on that one.

Overall super easy and love it! I made it using a cotton/polyester lightweight jersey blend.

Side view:

Back view:

McCall Pattern 6124 Sleeveless

The plan was to make View B, a basic short sleeved button down shirt. Well in my zealousness to have a better fit I accidentally took out all the underarm sleeve ease (oops!) and decided sleeveless it is, :). I’m contemplating adding some sort of ruffle cap sleeve.

  

Overall I like the end effect, :). I kept the same full bust adjustment I had created on the previous tunic shirt here. But this time I made the waist and above a size 14 and the hips area a 16. And as mentioned above I took out all the excess underarm ease. I also decided to flat fell all my seams. So pretty! And no loose threads, :).

  

The collar turned out great

  

As you can see instead of slip stitching the facing and collar down I just edge stitched them down, pretty and WAY easier.

  

And the back is so pretty!

  

I also re-did the buttonholes so I had one at the fullest part of my bust to prevent that inevitable gap bustier women get and then spaced them out 3.5″ from each other using the center points. I ended up using 8 buttons instead of 6.

I like how it turned out even though I’m sad the cute little short sleeves didn’t work out. I really prefer arm nobility over fashion though.

 

But here is the cute sleeve I tried.

Shirt looks great with a bolero over it for work and will be wonderful in summer. 

McCall Long Dress Shirt 6124



Decided to finally make  McCall 6124. I purchased several colors and yards of broadcloth through onlinefabricstore.net, the one used for this long shirt is this blue broadcloth. The plan is to make 2 short sleeved versions of length A/B, 1 long-sleeved version of length A/B, and a length E using sleeves A/C.

My first attempt was using length E with sleeves A/C, figured I can shorten the pattern as I go instead of trying to make a short one first and long one later. This first shirt was using size 16 and I added a 1″ full bust adjustment. My measurements are 39-31-42 for reference. I discovered this shirt is on the looser side which is fine since I plan to wear this tunic/dress with a belt but for the shorter ones I’ll make some fitting adjustments. I also discovered the size 16 was a bit big and will adjust the pattern down to a size 14 for the bust/waist. I’ve discovered with most McCall patterns they tend to be on the larger side. I’m also using non-stretch fabrics so ease is definitely needed. 

The first tricky part for me was the front facing. The instructions weren’t super clear on the folding/flipping part, I figured it out after a few tries before sewing. As can be seen in the montage below I sewed the facing to the front piece as instructed then sewed the bottom edge, then flipped it right side out and pressed it edge stitching the bottom as instructed.



Overall I’m happy with how it turned out, the FBA turned out really well, only the second one I’ve done and first time on a princess seam. This tutorial by Vogue was great. The only other thing I would do differently aside from sizing down to a 14 (I took most seams in throughout the shirt) would be to mark the button placements first without the pattern. Using the pattern markings you can see there is a slight gap in the fullest part of my bust.





I love the long length option, :). Also the cuffs instructions were a little tricky for the last step, didn’t realize they were supposed to be rolled up at first, haha. The shoulders are a little low but I attribute this partly to using a size too big.

And a few more detailed pics using my Dritz Body Double: