Love how this coat turned out! Look great with a short dress and boots, :). Perfect for those fancier nights out or just because I want to wear my new coat.
There is some puckering here and there but overall it looks great on so I don’t mind.
These are the fancy bell sleeves with all the fun top stitching. Getting a lot of compliments on these!
The back. I opted to not do button holes in the belt (and honestly I totally missed that step in the instructions, oops!) but I don’t mind not having button holes. This way if I want to move the buttons around to tighten or loosen the belt I can do so much easier!
A closer look at those fancy shoulders. Love the lines on this coat. I did not do any baste stitching on the inside bias seams, just pinned them in place and top stitched it all together from the outside.
My welted pockets. Whenever I do single welt pockets I seem to always end up with some puckering at the corners no matter what I do so I just live with it. So most people on the street it’s not even noticeable.
Yay for these fun button holes! My boyfriend thinks it’s weird that both sides are “open” but it works and it looks really cool. I haven’t taken out the stays titch lines yet. The buttons I used are made of real shell, :).
And the super fun lining! I’ve gotten a ton of compliments on this piece. I was looking for fabrics to use for the underlining and came across this through a Google search at fabric.com. Love it! Goes perfect with the navy wool/polyester gabardine fabric I had found at Mood fabrics. And the buttons and Thinsulate interlining I used for extra warmth were both purchased from the local Nashville fabric store Textile Fabrics.
You can check out and or follow the sew-a-long with Meg at the McCall blog and Lauren at Lladybird.
A little late posting this one. Normally I hate welted pockets. I can never get them to lie flat, etc. but these turned out okay.
Started off by mapping out the sewing lines and triangles.
Then I pinned the welt to the coat making sure that the initial puncture point of each pin marked the same line I’d drawn to make sewing it on easier.
Then did the same thing with the pocket while also marking the sewing lines on it.
And voila, a prettily sewn piece of charmeuse pocket.
Then per the directions I cut along the pocket center line (used my fancy roller cutter to start it then scissors to finish and cut the triangles). Then after pulling the pocket through you get this beauty.
Then I put the coat fabric piece over it, pinned, and sewed along the outside using the 5/8″ allowance. I decided to attach underlining to the pocket pieces as well. I trim to the 1/4″ seam before adding the seam binding.
Then the fun seam binding. I cheated a little and didn’t slip stitch it and used the same binding I’d used throughout the rest of the coat. I’ll slip stitch attach it later.
And voila! A pretty welted pocket. I hand-stitched the edges of these pocket welts but machine stitched the other. Both methods work just fine. Still a bit puckery but still looks just fine.
So I have begun the process of putting together my coat! First I spent many hours spraying and ironing together my 3 layers of fabric to make the sewing process easier and boy am I glad I did! Sure the pieces are starting to come apart a bit after being worked with but overall they are sticking together well enough to complete the project without any crazy fabric bubbles.
Currently I have worked up to step 32: Attaching the sleeves (Progress can be seen in above images). About 1/3 of the way, yay! I’ve got the front pieces attached to the side pieces and that funky triangle gusset. Thankful for the tip through the sew-a-long of clipping up to the circle on the front pieces, makes the triangle fit so much more smoothly. The second piece went a bit more smoothly than the first, as is usually the case. That triangle portion is shown here:
And after making a few suits this pattern seems way easier, definitely less pieces! Haha. The seam bias binding is pretty easy for me, just takes some time. I use this method on all my purses so I’m used to it now. Of course the charmeuse can be a bit fun but I love how it looks. I’ve also decided to eliminate the basting step and just sew the seam down after pinning it. Now I did make another change to make sewing it easier for me. I trimmed the seams after sewing them, then put the binding on. This gives me a little extra seam binding so I don’t get any weird underlap from the rough edges of the coat seams. I tried doing it the way the instructions stated but then my binding never quite covered the rough seams which is the whole point of this step.
This is the step I am talking about where I pin it down, then I just sew it from the other side to ensure a nice straight line.
And this is the pretty little triangle area which will look better once the sleeve has been attached.
Overall very happy with the progress I’ve made so far. Always hard to stop but after poking my fingers a few too many times with the needles and becoming tired I decided to break at this step last night and continue later today, :).
And as always feel free to check out Lladybird as she shares her expertise as well as the McCall blog, 🙂
So I did a lot of googling and came across the suggestion of glueing my fabric to the underlining. Or in my case, the outer fabric and under-lining to the inter-lining. I received my navy wool-polyester gabardine fabric and LOVE it but needed some warmth so I purchased some Thinsulate from the local Nashville store Textile Fabrics and a rayon lining I purchased from fabric.com. Also gorgeous, :). Then from Jo-Ann’s I purchased a can of spray called Spray n Bond Fusible Adhesive, iron on. Basically you spray it on the back of the fabric you want to connect, then iron it onto the one you want. To ensure no wrinkles I am doing the outer layer first (the gabardine) then the under-lining (the rayon). And voila! This way I won’t have to baste all the pieces together and it’ll be easier to work with as there will not be any large un-attached spaces to give it all a smoother look. 🙂
These are the finished pocket welt pieces. The blue is the outside layer and the animal print is the interior.
And in this one you can see the three separate layers.
Check out those in charge of the sew-a-long at Lladybird and McCall Patterns.
I saw this Vogue pattern awhile back and thought “ooh that’s cute”. So kept looking at it until it went on sale and then said, ok. After which I searched for anyone who has made this coat before for tips and found this awesome sew-a-long through Lladybird and McCall. I hope to have mine finished before the end of the month but that will all depend on when I receive the fabrics I ordered and how much time it will actually take me to make this coat. Going for perfection since I did end up spending a bit more than originally anticipated… I had found some cheap gabardine through the online fabric store and then after receiving it realized it was a very light weight polyester which would not do at all. So I went a hunting and found these beauties.
The pieces somewhat together minus the navy charmeuse.
Found this gorgeous navy blue wool/polyester medium weight garbardine fabric through Mood Fabrics. And I received an email today that stated it has shipped!
And then I found this gorgeous and fun rayon fabric to use for the lining. So excited! This was found through fabric.com. My original plan was a blue plaid flannel and then someone mentioned using a fabric that will make the coat easy to put on and take off. And voila!
The button holes and inside seams will be lined with a navy blue charmeuse similar in color to the navy gabardine and it was purchased through the Online Fabric Store.
Then I will put a layer of Thinsulate in between the outer garbardine and the inner rayon to add a layer of warmth to make this a nice winter coat. The Thinsulate was purchased through Textile Fabrics here in Nashville. Also for any locals they are having a sale on all fabric with everything 40% off. Unfortunately this did not include interfacings.
And last but not least the buttons! Also purchased through Textile Fabrics. Saw these shell buttons and thought they would make perfect accents to the coat’s navy color.
In the mean time while I was sourcing different fabrics and determining if I wanted an inner layer of warm fabric and underlining, etc. I have already managed to create my trial mock-up coat out of leftover muslins and suit fabric. Due to being a DD, I decided to go with the next size up and just take in the waist a bit. I put the pieces together using the 5/8″ seam and it almost needed no adjustments! Sorting out piece #4 was a little tricky, the little triangle piece that attaches to the side panel and the sleeve pieces. It was all puckery but a quick snip to the inside fabric resolved this issue perfectly. Not 100% on how the seam binding will affect it yet but overall compared to making suits this coat won’t be nearly as difficult. No pad-stitching and way less pieces! It’ll take some time to pre-sew all the layers of fabric together to make the construction process easier but worth it I’m sure. Below are some photos of the muslin proto-type on my dress dummy. You can see the under sleeve triangle piece I was talking about in the first photo.