Lacey Spring Dress

I’ve had this mint green lace in my stash for awhile and finally decided what to make with it. Another Gertie’s Ultimate Dress Book dress!

I used her wedding dress as my starting point. I used the sweetheart neckline strapless bodice top in nude lining under a lace overlay in the boatneck style for which I salvaged the lace and attached it to the neckline. Then I used the cap sleeves in lace only before attaching it all to a self-drafted half-circle skirt with pockets! And I salvaged more lace to hem the skirt bottom. So yeah, a lot of hours went into this dress but I love it!

I made it in a size 10 with 3″ FBA, but that’s about the only adjustments I made. It is fully lined and the lace skirt portion is underlined. I was a good seamstress and let the skirt hang for a few days before evening out the skirt and hemming. I was having trouble underlining it when flat pinning the underlining and lace together, so I did that part while hanging it on my dress form. Worth the time.

I used spiral steel boning because it’s the best. I’ve used Rigilene and the plastic stuff, but spiral steel boning is amazing! I then make my own boning channels using Petersham ribbon. I plan to add a waist stay at some point.

As for other techniques, I used a lapped zipper. I might add horsehair braid in the future.

Overall, love it!

Advertisements

Seamwork Sonya

I made this awhile ago, but I never got around to blogging about it. I’m a monthly Seamwork member and love the patterns. If you use my link, you can get your first month half off: click here. :).

This is the Seamwork Sonya. I made a few adjustments: 2″ FBA, took in the waist a little (mainly due to FBA), and changed the pocket size. I loved the look of the lines going every which way in the photos on the pattern. It took some time and planning, but I got it to work out, :). The fabric is a gorgeous cotton from Fabric.com.

I decided to reduce the size of the pockets. At full size they bagged out a bit too much for me. They looked like saddle bags unfortunately, so I made them both about 1/4 of the original sized.

Overall, I really love how she turned out and I get loads of compliments, :).

I made version 1 in a size 10. The instructions are very detailed every step of the way making this a great project for different levels of seamstresses.

My Very Own Dress Form! Meet Ava, :).

Ever since I discovered it was possible to make your own dress form it has been on my to-do list for a long time. For Christmas this year I requested a pattern from Bootstrap Fashions and received a Jo-Ann’s gift card, combined with my 2 week winter break, I was finally able to make this happen! I have made a lot of projects, but this one has brought me the most satisfaction and feeling of accomplishment. If you are wanting to make your own dress form, you should really use their option of entering all of your measurements for a custom pattern. Plus, when you do it this way they will put in the seam allowances for you, unlike the method I used. If you decide to give this a go, please use my link, :). Click here for the pattern options.

I decided to do this about the most difficult way that one can, but I am very happy with the results. I received the PDF set of standard sizes 2-14 with cup sizes A-DD. With my measurements, I was between the sizes 10, 12, and 14 and past the DD size. Also, each size pattern is printed on individual sets of paper…so after printing and cutting and putting together 3 sets of papers (several hours!), I was able to trace out all my pattern pieces with the base size a 10 cup size DD, then grading out to a size 12 for the waist, size 14 for the hips, and size 14 cup size DD for the chest. So much time! But, in the end I was very happy with the final project, :).

The instructions are amazing! There are about 44 pages of detailed instructions with images, plus, Kelly Hogaboom, she does a wonderful job of giving even more details and advise throughout the process.

I purchased a woven interfacing called WovenFuse purchased here. It works just as well as SF101, but it comes in 45″ width! In the instructions, they recommend applying the interfacing to the fabric prior to cutting out the pieces, having 45″ wide interfacing was a huge plus! The fabric I used is called Vintage Pink Large Floral. The pattern recommends using an upholstery weight fabric, but I didn’t have any issues with my quilting cotton quality fabric. I just love the vintage vibe it gives. Hence the name Ava, for Ava Gardner. And she’s perfect! I will admit, this project took time, about 5 days of working on it. There are a few pieces, sewing, top stitching the lines, stuffing, cutting out the cardboard, etc. Ironing the interfacing onto 2 yards of fabric took awhile. In the end it was all worth it. This dress form is so much better than my adjustable form. I loved her, but it had all this open areas and hard edges. I can pin into Ava without any issues anywhere, :). Plus, unlike duct tape, she won’t gunk up my pins.

As you can tell, I really don’t have anything negative to say about this pattern at all. If anything, I am definitely planning to check out some of Bootstrap’s other sloper patterns. Love the idea of just entering my measurements and receiving a customized pattern.

As for the level needed to put this together, my advise is: if you can make a princess seam shirt or dress, you can make this. It’s really not difficult so much as just takes some time.

Isn’t she gorgeous?!?!

And in use already:

Butterick 6143 Take 2


I won some fabric awhile back, I think for making the first version of this coat actually, ;). I wanted to make the long version of Butterick 6143. The exterior fabric is from Sawyer Brooks Fabrics. The name was Deep Sea which was quite fitting for this gorgeous teal color. The fabric is a wool, silk, and cotton blend with a chenille texture in a tweed pattern.

I used the same top pieces from Take 1, so there were no fitting issues to resolve. Only change was I had to trace out and cut out new pattern pieces for the longer length. Other than the requirement to cut out 4 pieces of nearly everything, the construction was fairly straight forward. I had the exterior fabric and lining, I then also interlined the coat with Thinsulate for additional warmth plus the interfacing for portions of the coat for structure.

I decided to nix the shoulder pads this time. I liked the lace accents on the sleeves but I didn’t have any of the reccommended width of 5″, but I think the 2 5/8″ wide lace I used looks perfect. I then also added a lace accent around the waist. This made making the button hole there a little tricky but not too bad.

More notes on my Sewing Pattern Review.

I LOVE the floral lining and lace accents, gives my fancy new coat such a vintage vibe, :).





Jalie Loulouxe Running Skirt


I love running skirts and as soon as I saw the Jalie Loulouxe, I knew I had to make a new one, :). 

I had read a couple reviews that had mentioned the shorts weren’t compression style and recommended to go down a size or 2, but I neglected to have that forethought. So I ended up taking the inseam in about an inch in total. I also thought they were a bit short for me so I lengthened the shorts and skirt 1”. I also added a large exterior pocket to the back of the top back skirt portion per this tutorial. Other changes were to use a 2” wide elastic in the waistband and to use the construction method Jalie’s other running skirt patter of attaching the skirt and shorts to the waistband.
Otherwise the construction directions were great and easy to follow, :). Next time I will make the shorts 1-2 sizes smaller and add another inch of length.

Love this newest addition! Shorts stayed out while running and th fabric I used is so amazing. It’s mostly nylon supplex type material I purchased from our local sewing store.
Thinking of making a pants version next.

Vintage Inspired Old Hollywood Glamour Dress


Haven’t had as much time to work on sewing projects but managed to finish this one in time for the local Frist Art Deco Affair. Always love an excuse to make a fancy dress, ;). The theme was “Old Hollywood Glamour”. I think I succeeded, :).
I used this BurdaStyle pattern called V-Neck Evening Gown with Starburst and Godets. A really really long name but gorgeous pattern. I needed to make a few changes first.

First, I decided to use a stretch charmeuse instead of the recommended taffeta. Next, I did a 3″ FBA and moved the shoulder straps inward 1.5″. I made a test mock up and it was pretty awesome on the first go, only needed to shorten the straps about 1″, about the same I had added.


Pic of all the pattern piece changes to the front. I didn’t want to change the pleats so I cut them off and added them back after I had completed my FBA.

Made my mockup in some leftover fabric I had that was the same as I had ordered and it fit!

Now…I had ordered a gorgeous dark red from TheOnlineFabricStore.net but unfortunately they neglected to inform me it was on backorder. So I had waited a week, heard it would arrive to their warehouse within the week, only to find out the following Monday it had not. Hence to say I canceled my order and will never be ordering from them again. On the other hand, Fabric.com is amazing! Great quality fabric and super fast service. Plus, they post a live count of how many yards they have in stock. So I ended up making my dress in a Champagne colored stretch polyester charmeuse and I love it!


Now to make it a bit more “Art Deco” I found this beautiful brooch on Amazon, perfect for my dress! It fit perfectly in the center of the starburst pattern.

I’ve done enough pleats now that forming the starburst pleats were easy enough. The trouble I ran into was from the hips to knees of the skirt of the dress. I mistakenly finished all the seams before trying the dress on. Big fail! Thank goodness for stretch fabric! Much tighter than I anticipated. So I nixed the skirt portion of the lining and work a skirt slip under it instead. I tried Spanx but they ended up with a big hole within just trying them on. Definitely returning!

So all in all, the dress came together beautifully. The back godet was much longer than it looked in the photos so I added a finger loop. I think it only added to the vintage look I was going for, :).


Look at that gorgeous train!



Finger loop was a good idea!


From the event with my handsome date.

Seamwork Savannah in Silk

Yay! I’ve finally made a camisole that is almost perfect, ;). I’ve had this Seamwork Savannah on my to-make list for awhile. For anyone not currently a subscriber, you can use my referral link for half off your first month (usually $6/month, so only $3 for 2 patterns!). I love Seamwork’s patterns. Overall fairly easy and simple quick projects that look great! I have quite a few on my list but was really excited to finally get this one made ever since I had some leftover silk from previous projects.

My first attempt at making a 3″ dartless FBA failed so I decided to try again using a 4″ FBA and adding bust darts. The 3″ wasn’t enough room but the 4″ fits much better! And the darts help with the shaping. I used this tutorial. The only thing I need to change for the next one is to move the darts up about an inch and start about 1″ further to the side, but could just be partially the bra I was wearing as the fit was much better over another.

I had to take in the sides a little bit (pinched out 3/4″ darts) before finishing up my french seams. Definitely a must on a silk camisole. French seams take a little extra time but result in such a nice finish. I also used my fancy new narrow hem foot to hem the neckline and bottom before sewing everything together. On this version I opted to not use the recommended lace trim.

Then I ran into the fact that the scoop of the back was much too low for my personal tastes, so following a similar design feature on the Aurora tank on the back on my camisole and it worked out really well and I think it looks pretty great. Not sure why my skin tone is so crazy!

Overall, I am pretty happy with how my fancy new silk camisole turned out. So shiny! Love silk charmeuse.