Butterick 6143 Take 2


I won some fabric awhile back, I think for making the first version of this coat actually, ;). I wanted to make the long version of Butterick 6143. The exterior fabric is from Sawyer Brooks Fabrics. The name was Deep Sea which was quite fitting for this gorgeous teal color. The fabric is a wool, silk, and cotton blend with a chenille texture in a tweed pattern.

I used the same top pieces from Take 1, so there were no fitting issues to resolve. Only change was I had to trace out and cut out new pattern pieces for the longer length. Other than the requirement to cut out 4 pieces of nearly everything, the construction was fairly straight forward. I had the exterior fabric and lining, I then also interlined the coat with Thinsulate for additional warmth plus the interfacing for portions of the coat for structure.

I decided to nix the shoulder pads this time. I liked the lace accents on the sleeves but I didn’t have any of the reccommended width of 5″, but I think the 2 5/8″ wide lace I used looks perfect. I then also added a lace accent around the waist. This made making the button hole there a little tricky but not too bad.

More notes on my Sewing Pattern Review.

I LOVE the floral lining and lace accents, gives my fancy new coat such a vintage vibe, :).





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Butterick 6019: Finished!

Been working on this one for a week and so happy to finish it, especially as my sewing machine busted right as I was over-casting the waist seam. So sad about that but as it’s about 5 months old it should be under warrenty. So the buttons for the strap will need to wait, but I may just permanently attatch the halter strap. This is the amazing Butterick 6019 pattern by Gertie. Her stunning version can be found here as well as links to the bodice and horsehair braid hem tutorials I used. I went with the size 14 D cup pattern sizing and version A. Love that full skirt! All my bodice adjustments can be found here. Definitely had to make a few. It took me about 3 tries but I got it! I wanted it to be supportive and full coverage. I do wish I’d purchased some steel boning but the feather lite plastic boning is ok. I also added 2″ of length to the skirt and took the waist up 1/2″. Perfect!

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As you can tell from my center back crease (shoulders pushed back too far), the center back seam is spot on! Also some great shoulder/upper back definition from my Aerial Silks class, ;). It took me about 2 hours to properly fit the zipper. I did the lapel zipper which was easy enough after making the pants but I had to do it about 3 times before the fit was right.

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And it took many hours and lots of stitching, pinning, and seam ripping but I finally got the bust profile I was aiming for. And that hem! It took awhile being about 5.5 yards but I did it! Using the horsehair braid made the process so much easier. I ended up choosing 1/2″ wide polyester braid and rolling it up twice so it isn’t visible.

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And the obligatory spinning photo to show off that full skirt, :). We’re having gorgeous weather here in Nashville today!

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Butterick 6019: Bodice Construction

Loving this dress! I’ve been taking my time with this one making sure the fit is absolutely right. I used Gertie’s adding an underwire to a bustier style top tuturial to add underwires that I took out of an old bra that didn’t fit anymore. It was a little tricky finding the best fit but what I ended up doing that worked really well was to lay the old bra on top of the bustier and trace the outline of it, then matched the underwires up with the outline. I was going to add additional boning but I have the cheap plastic kind and it was bending funny so just put in the 2 recommended by the pattern. Look at that pretty placement! You can’t see from the photo, but I have a layer of Pellon 950F ShirTailor interfacing lining the cups and then sew-in fleece interfacing on top of that. I didn’t put any interfacing on the bottom portions.

On the outer bodice front pieces I lined the cups with the same Pellon 950F interfacing and then used Pellon featherlight interfacing on the bottom sections. Essentially I lined the bra cups twice with the Pellon 950F (once on the outer fabric and once on the lining) with a layer of fleece lining inbetween them. This gives the top wonderful structure so I won’t need a bra at all with this dress, :). I opted to not put in a waiststay since everything is so structured and I’ll be attaching the halter top.

I made 3 muslins total, one using the original size 14 D-cup pieces with no adjustments, one making adjustments, and the final version. As can be seen by the two pieces below I ended up adding about an inch to the bottom cup pieces and about an inch to the top as well to ensure full coverage and excellent support. For sewing purposes I am a 34DD, I used the size 14 pieces.

And a photo of muslin #3 and then the final version. Perfect!

Due to this awesome pattern it’s hard to see all the line stitching on the bodice lining.

And complete! I had to adjust the band a little due to adding an overall 2″ to the bodice top and not adding any length to the band…oops! It all worked out. Also instead of understitching the lining I’m just putting “invisible” stitches to attach the lining to the outer bodice.

I also added a bit of a V to the front cup for visual aesthetics. This dress top is super supportive! And the fabric pattern is perfect. The dress is almost completed. Just the zipper, hem, and halter strap left… I am also using Gertie’s horsehair braid tutorial for the hem line. I selected 1/2″ wide polyester horsehair braid to add a little structure to the hem. Keeping the overall vibe of this dress more casual.

Shirring!

So I have finally had the chance to begin working on my very own Butterick 6019 version A Shaheen look a like dress, pattern by Gertie. Yay! I’ve spent 1 day making muslins of the top to ensure the proper fit ending up making 3 different ones but finally got it. I had to add about 2″ to the overall pattern to get the fit, support, and coverage I wanted. Then I played around with using just batting or adding interfacing and deciding to go with both, more details and photos in a future post, ;). Gertie’s blog has been wonderfully helpful. Using her adding underwire to a bustier tutorial. Still working on it. But I progressed enough to shirr the side pieces. I did some research after seeing people with Brother sewing machines can have some trouble. I came across this post by Tina referencing my Brother cs6000i specifically. And bingo! Worked out perfectly, :). This was my first attempt and I of course practiced on a scrap piece first. Then I wound up about 3 bobbins and shirred away. I just wound my bobbins on my machine like I would any other bobbin threading it through the guides. Dawn Nicole also had a great tutorial here that includes photos.

He is the first few rows. As Dawn clarified, ONLY WIND THE BOBBIN WITH ELASTIC and then use a regular top thread. After adjusting the tension on my bobbin (had no idea I could do this!) I threaded my machine and just eyeballed the rows. When using stitch setting 00 as long as I kept a little over a presser foot difference between rows they measures 1/2″ from each other so I would stitch another row in between to get the desired 1/4″ distances between rows. On the first piece I did about 10 rows before I realized I wasn’t leaving a 5/8″ seam allowance on the sides, oops! After I finished all the rows I tied off each end and then steam ironed over the piece so it would shrink up nicely. Perfect! Overall it took me about 2 hours to complete both panels. The sewing went quick, it was the tying that took awhile. It’s recommended to not back stitch the elastic. I was a little weary but overall it wasn’t very hard at all. Love the effect. Now I know how they do that for sundress tops, :).

Love this floral fabric pattern, absolutely perfect for a Shaheen look a like. And the fun part is I selected this fabric before even knowing that was his style, haha. Was just looking for a nice spring/summery floral.

As you can see side by side the shirred piece with the non-shirred piece it crinkles up nicely!

And a more detailed photo of the stitch lines.

Future Projects

I posted previously about all these patterns I have, well now I have some fabrics:

  

There have been so many beautiful creations online from this Gertie Butterick 6019 pattern.

 

This navy blue white floral fabric I picked up at Textile Fabrics Store‘s current sale will be a perfect spring/summer dress! They are having a close out sale on all fabrics 1 yard or more 50% off until they close their location in Nashville in June.

Then I discovered Gertie has a blog on how to add an underwire built in bra to this dress. Looks like I may need to dismantle an old bra, ;). Her tutorial on adding underwire can be found here. And her run down of the pattern with many other links here. Looks amazing!

  

 

  

And plans for two of these Butterick shirts. Both in view A but using long sleeves for the white and the length B sleeves for the plaid with added pockets of course. I loved Lladybird’s versions here, she’s made this a few times and every one looks amazing!

I’m still working on Simplicity 2860 pants, almost finished! I’ve added some pockets and just have the waistband and hems left. Never could quite get the back fit perfected. I think I’ll use size 14 average with some crotch depth and length corrections instead of the size 16 curvy. Crotch depth and length were good, maybe even a little short but the hips were much too wide for the size for me, I took them in a good inch overall and the back darts lay funny and just too much fabric across for me. One dart would be better I think.

  

I’ve done so much research on pants making and thus far none of the advice helped fix the baggy back pants issue. If any one has any advice for my future pair I’d appreciate it!

 

So Many Projects!

I really need to stop buying new patterns and fabrics…

Currently I have the following 10 patterns that I either haven’t even made once yet or plan to remake due to gaining a few pounds. Mostly muscle! Haha.

  

Excited for this one. I have Googled this pattern and seen so many great projects with it. It seems the seams are in better spots and a little more shaped than the McCall one I’ve made twice now. Plan on doing the princess seam view with long sleeves. I’ve purchased the following two gorgeous fabrics for it from Jo-Ann’s:

  

Love that plaid!

  

First I think I’ll finally make these Simplicity Amazing Fit pants and add some pockets. I just realized they have no pockets!!! I have the subtle light grey polyester suiting fabric from Jo-Ann’s to use as well as a beige stripe. We’ll see how well I like the pants first. I’ve seen some positive reviews.

 

I bought some beautiful red stretch Italian polyester fabric from Mood Fabrics to remake this dress. Previously I’d made the first silhouette to the left on the bottom but it’s way too small now and think I’ll remake it on the style of the silhouette on the right next.

   

And of course swim suit season is just around the corner so I thought I would try my hand at making my own suit out of some of the spandex I have leftover form making my running/workout leggings. I think the purple sparkly zebra print would look great. And of course a cover up. I made the ruffles one last time, might make the longer version this time.

   

I’ve had both of these for awhile now. Just need to pick out the right fabric at the right sales price. I received the sad news that Textile Fabrics in Nashville is closing, :(. Also means I need to check out the sales fabric. I really do hope they find another location.

   

 

These are newly purchased, just need fabric. Love the retro look, :).

  And this this has been on my list for awhile to make the view A as a sheer tunic. Haven’t been searching for fabric for this one.

And to order the Ginger Jeans pattern and make my first pair of jeans.

Also some jersey cotton knit to make these Rosy Ladyshorts, my own underwear.

And still more on the wish list. Never enough spare hours!

Butterick 5953 Dress

I am in love with this dress! You can purchase this pattern online at Butterick, it’s part of the Patterns by Gertie line. I made a test muslin that turned out pretty good considering I sewed my darts on the wrong side, haha. The actual dress was overall easy and the only time consuming parts were putting in the facing (stitching, trimming, understitching…) and ironing. I think this fabric is beautiful and great that it has a little stretch but not the easiest to iron! It just doesn’t want to crease very well, so good news is there will be very few wrinkles. The pattern suggested fabrics did not include polyester lining material but I think the leopard print worked great for the accents. I made a size 16 due to my measurements of 38-31-42. I took in the sides and darts considerably. This is where having a dress dummy is so handy, I could pin it and look at it on the dummy. It’s very hard to make back dart adjustments on yourself!

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Look at those gorgeous lapels!

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I covered the buttons myself without a fancy button kit using this tutorial. It was pretty easy. I used 7/8″ buttons and then cut out a circle pattern that was large enough to cover the front and bunch in the back of the button. Now the first trial failed miserably due to the unraveling nature of the lining fabric but I solved that issue with some trusty Fray Ease around the edges.

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And voila, beautiful accent buttons. I used my new Brother cs6000i for this project and and so thankful for the easy button holer! Makes perfect button holes every time, :).

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I adjusted the darts in the back as well to bring more of an hour glass shape to the dress, turned out beautifully with minor puckering. A lot of that is due to the ironing difficulty. And check out that godet accent!

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I like the little splash of leopard print in the back. I also used a blind hem stitch for the bottom instead of hem tape. I didn’t use any hem tape on this entire dress. The blind stitch hem is a feature on my new machine that I have never had before and think it is fantastic. I’d have to say my favorite feature is my overcast stitch though. I don’t have a serger so it’s as close as I can get to finishing my clothes. Works great, just a little extra work on my part.

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And voila! A beautiful pinup worthy dress, especially with those leopard print accents, ;).

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