Butterick 6143 Version C

I’ve had Butterick 6143 for awhile and finally decided what to make it with! I made my Vogue Cape a few years ago (details here) but I just never wore it. The 100% super soft amazing quality wool I had used was too good to let waste away, so I took several days to tediously unpick all of the panels, iron them, and strategically place all of my pattern pieces to make my Butterick coat!

Here is the before pic of the cloak and the after of my coat, :).

It took a bit, but I managed to eke out just enough to make the coat minus the front facings and collar, so I decided to make those with faux fur. Luckily I rarely throw scrap fabric away and still had a nice bit of the wool left uncut, :).

Overall the coat construction went smoothly and pretty easy. Made a mock up first, highly recommend! I ended up taking the shoulder seams in about an inch on both sides and down the back.

I also didn’t have quite enough fabric for the one piece sleeves so I re-drafted them into 2 piece sleeves using Thread’s tutorial on converting symmetrical sleeves. Worked out perfect! Because I interlined the entire coat with Thinsulate I only used a 1/2″ seam on the sleeve portions.

Look at those sleeve lines, so nice!

Speaking of interlining, it took forever! But worth it for the extra warmth. I sewed each piece onto the outer coat pieces though it is recommended to sew them onto the lining pieces. So I had to deal with some fuzzies. Per the instructions I put the quilted side facing the outside. Then the lining was Bemberg rayon and the faux fur is from Jo-Ann’s. I got wolf, so soft!

Next up: the faux fur… overall not too bad until I got to the button holes. I cut it very carefully to prevent fuzz flying everywhere. My machine did well until the button holes. It struggled big time even after trimming down the fur around. One worked well, the other 2 on the front facing portion not so much. Took me THREE hours of unpicking and finally breaking down and making the holes myself without my auto one step.

A pic of the one button hole that looked good that the machine worked for. You can also see some blue ribbon on the side. To tame down the fur I trimmed it down and then put a ribbon over it to look nice and be functional.


As for attaching the lining to the outer shell I followed the directions but edge stitched the entire outline as well so everything would lay nice and flat. As for sizing, I made a 16 with the D cup pieces. My measurements are 41-31-41. Usually I have to do a FBA but not for this coat. And roomy enough for a light weight sweater underneath, :).

And voila, a gorgeous fall coat! LOVE the color and faux fur accent. The gold buttons were gifted to me.



And a pic of the insides. I really need to make some tags to put in my handmade items. I used Bemberg rayon lining.

Simplicity 2172, McCall’s 7335, and McCall’s 2447

Like I have mentioned before, I took one look at Simplicity 2172 and just knew I had to make it. I was thinking maybe for Halloween and then I saw Nashville’s The Cabaret Noir Collective hosting a Time Traveler’s Ball, perfect! The event itself was great and I was able to finish my outfit in time, :). 2 weeks of part-time work on these patterns was a bit over zealous but I managed, :). Even made muslins of everything but the hat! And there are so many gorgeous versions on the internet.

Now be prepared, this is a bit of a long post with lots of photos…

I have already blogged the details that went into the making of the corset here. So much work but it turned out lovely.

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Next up was making my boyfriend a matching vest using McCall’s 2447. Cut out a muslin first and made a few adjustments to tailor the fit a bit more bringing in the top sides about an inch each. Then because I dislike welts that serve no purpose I created a pocket pattern using the top welt pocket pieces from Vogue 8890 as a reference. They turned out fine but far from perfect. I think the vest turned out quite lovely using the medium weight twill cotton from my corset. The directions were easy to follow and already working on another vest made from a nice navy wool for his birthday, :). Using the pocket pattern pieces from the Jason vest pattern this time and working out much better but more about that in another post once it is finished. For this one I used Bemberg lining for the back and lining.

Look at that fit! The one on the left was after all of the tailoring adjustments, you can see how the one on the right has some puffiness at the sides.

 

Then it was time to make the skirt! Oh my goodness, that pleated hem took so many hours. It was quite literally 9 yards of fabric to stitch the 9 panels together, then hem, then pleat. So the hem went from 9 yards to about 3 yards. The rest of the skirt was pretty easy, just sew together 3 panels, attach the hem and attach the waistband pieces. I made a size 16 and even then was a bit tight. So while the corset had too much ease the skirt had the perfect amount.

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Then the coat. Again, not too difficult as the instructions were really good but time consuming. I cut out a size 14 for the coat but should have graded out to a size 16 at the waist. I only made one adjustment of adding 1/2″ of length to the waist. There were a lot of pieces and fully lined, so it took some time. Loved the pockets! They looked great and were a nice size, I could fit everything I needed without bringing a purse along, :). The neck ruffle took a long time to hem both sides but looked great. I decided to nix the sleeves for now as it was so warm out but might add them later for Halloween when it is cooler out.

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Side View

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And the back. Instead of making a tie from fabric I made one using some white faux leather and ended up needing 3 pieces instead of the 2 pieces the pattern said to cut out. I think it adds a lovely contrasting detail.

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And to top it all off, literally, I made a hat! I used McCall’s 7335 Version C and it turned out like the picture pretty well. The hat is a lot of little pieces but goes together fairly quickly. I just followed the steps but instead of stitching my decorative feathers in place I hot glued them and instead of an elastic band to hold the hat on I added hair clips. These were a little fiddly and didn’t stay on very well. May hot glue them in or use combs instead.

I sewed on a few gears to the decorative holder holding the feathers.

 

 

And the happy couple! I had made Dan this suit a few years ago and the vest looks fantastic with it. The suit is Vogue 8890. We looked so old fashioned, ;). And of course we added some gears and chains here and there to finish off the looks. This photo is also using a vintage filter of course. I think everything turned out perfect!

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Vogue 1419 Ralph Rucci Coat Finished!

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Love how this coat turned out! Look great with a short dress and boots, :). Perfect for those fancier nights out or just because I want to wear my new coat.

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 There is some puckering here and there but overall it looks great on so I don’t mind.

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 These are the fancy bell sleeves with all the fun top stitching. Getting a lot of compliments on these!

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The back. I opted to not do button holes in the belt (and honestly I totally missed that step in the instructions, oops!) but I don’t mind not having button holes. This way if I want to move the buttons around to tighten or loosen the belt I can do so much easier!

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A closer look at those fancy shoulders. Love the lines on this coat. I did not do any baste stitching on the inside bias seams, just pinned them in place and top stitched it all together from the outside.

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My welted pockets. Whenever I do single welt pockets I seem to always end up with some puckering at the corners no matter what I do so I just live with it. So most people on the street it’s not even noticeable.

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Yay for these fun button holes! My boyfriend thinks it’s weird that both sides are “open” but it works and it looks really cool. I haven’t taken out the stays titch lines yet. The buttons I used are made of real shell, :).

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And the super fun lining! I’ve gotten a ton of compliments on this piece. I was looking for fabrics to use for the underlining and came across this through a Google search at fabric.com. Love it! Goes perfect with the navy wool/polyester gabardine fabric I had found at Mood fabrics. And the buttons and Thinsulate interlining I used for extra warmth were both purchased from the local Nashville fabric store Textile Fabrics.

You can check out and or follow the sew-a-long with Meg at the McCall blog and Lauren at Lladybird.

Vogue 1419 Pockets

A little late posting this one. Normally I hate welted pockets. I can never get them to lie flat, etc. but these turned out okay.

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Started off by mapping out the sewing lines and triangles.

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Then I pinned the welt to the coat making sure that the initial puncture point of each pin marked the same line I’d drawn to make sewing it on easier.

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Then did the same thing with the pocket while also marking the sewing lines on it.

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And voila, a prettily sewn piece of charmeuse pocket.

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Then per the directions I cut along the pocket center line (used my fancy roller cutter to start it then scissors to finish and cut the triangles). Then after pulling the pocket through you get this beauty.

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Then I put the coat fabric piece over it, pinned, and sewed along the outside using the 5/8″ allowance. I decided to attach underlining to the pocket pieces as well. I trim to the 1/4″ seam before adding the seam binding.

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Then the fun seam binding. I cheated a little and didn’t slip stitch it and used the same binding I’d used throughout the rest of the coat. I’ll slip stitch attach it later.

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And voila! A pretty welted pocket. I hand-stitched the edges of these pocket welts but machine stitched the other. Both methods work just fine. Still a bit puckery but still looks just fine.

Vogue 1419 Sew-A-Long Progress

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So I have begun the process of putting together my coat! First I spent many hours spraying and ironing together my 3 layers of fabric to make the sewing process easier and boy am I glad I did! Sure the pieces are starting to come apart a bit after being worked with but overall they are sticking together well enough to complete the project without any crazy fabric bubbles.

Currently I have worked up to step 32: Attaching the sleeves (Progress can be seen in above images). About 1/3 of the way, yay! I’ve got the front pieces attached to the side pieces and that funky triangle gusset. Thankful for the tip through the sew-a-long of clipping up to the circle on the front pieces, makes the triangle fit so much more smoothly. The second piece went a bit more smoothly than the first, as is usually the case. That triangle portion is shown here:

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And after making a few suits this pattern seems way easier, definitely less pieces! Haha. The seam bias binding is pretty easy for me, just takes some time. I use this method on all my purses so I’m used to it now. Of course the charmeuse can be a bit fun but I love how it looks. I’ve also decided to eliminate the basting step and just sew the seam down after pinning it. Now I did make another change to make sewing it easier for me. I trimmed the seams after sewing them, then put the binding on. This gives me a little extra seam binding so I don’t get any weird underlap from the rough edges of the coat seams. I tried doing it the way the instructions stated but then my binding never quite covered the rough seams which is the whole point of this step.

This is the step I am talking about where I pin it down, then I just sew it from the other side to ensure a nice straight line.

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And this is the pretty little triangle area which will look better once the sleeve has been attached.

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Overall very happy with the progress I’ve made so far. Always hard to stop but after poking my fingers a few too many times with the needles and becoming tired I decided to break at this step last night and continue later today, :).

And as always feel free to check out Lladybird as she shares her expertise as well as the McCall blog, 🙂

Vogue 1419 Sew-a-long under/inter-lining

So I did a lot of googling and came across the suggestion of glueing my fabric to the underlining. Or in my case, the outer fabric and under-lining to the inter-lining. I received my navy wool-polyester gabardine fabric and LOVE it but needed some warmth so I purchased some Thinsulate from the local Nashville store Textile Fabrics and a rayon lining I purchased from fabric.com. Also gorgeous, :). Then from Jo-Ann’s I purchased a can of spray called Spray n Bond Fusible Adhesive, iron on. Basically you spray it on the back of the fabric you want to connect, then iron it onto the one you want. To ensure no wrinkles I am doing the outer layer first (the gabardine) then the under-lining (the rayon). And voila! This way I won’t have to baste all the pieces together and it’ll be easier to work with as there will not be any large un-attached spaces to give it all a smoother look. 🙂

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These are the finished pocket welt pieces. The blue is the outside layer and the animal print is the interior.

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And in this one you can see the three separate layers.

Check out those in charge of the sew-a-long at Lladybird and McCall Patterns.

Ralph Rucci Coat Vogue Pattern 1419

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I saw this Vogue pattern awhile back and thought “ooh that’s cute”. So kept looking at it until it went on sale and then said, ok. After which I searched for anyone who has made this coat before for tips and found this awesome sew-a-long through Lladybird and McCall. I hope to have mine finished before the end of the month but that will all depend on when I receive the fabrics I ordered and how much time it will actually take me to make this coat. Going for perfection since I did end up spending a bit more than originally anticipated… I had found some cheap gabardine through the online fabric store and then after receiving it realized it was a very light weight polyester which would not do at all. So I went a hunting and found these beauties.

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The pieces somewhat together minus the navy charmeuse.

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Found this gorgeous navy blue wool/polyester medium weight garbardine fabric through Mood Fabrics. And I received an email today that stated it has shipped!

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And then I found this gorgeous and fun rayon fabric to use for the lining. So excited! This was found through fabric.com. My original plan was a blue plaid flannel and then someone mentioned using a fabric that will make the coat easy to put on and take off. And voila!

The button holes and inside seams will be lined with a navy blue charmeuse similar in color to the navy gabardine and it was purchased through the Online Fabric Store.

Then I will put a layer of Thinsulate in between the outer garbardine and the inner rayon to add a layer of warmth to make this a nice winter coat. The Thinsulate was purchased through Textile Fabrics here in Nashville. Also for any locals they are having a sale on all fabric with everything 40% off. Unfortunately this did not include interfacings.

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And last but not least the buttons! Also purchased through Textile Fabrics. Saw these shell buttons and thought they would make perfect accents to the coat’s navy color.

In the mean time while I was sourcing different fabrics and determining if I wanted an inner layer of warm fabric and underlining, etc. I have already managed to create my trial mock-up coat out of leftover muslins and suit fabric. Due to being a DD, I decided to go with the next size up and just take in the waist a bit. I put the pieces together using the 5/8″ seam and it almost needed no adjustments! Sorting out piece #4 was a little tricky, the little triangle piece that attaches to the side panel and the sleeve pieces. It was all puckery but a quick snip to the inside fabric resolved this issue perfectly. Not 100% on how the seam binding will affect it yet but overall compared to making suits this coat won’t be nearly as difficult. No pad-stitching and way less pieces! It’ll take some time to pre-sew all the layers of fabric together to make the construction process easier but worth it I’m sure. Below are some photos of the muslin proto-type on my dress dummy. You can see the under sleeve triangle piece I was talking about in the first photo.

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