Colette Chantilly

I decided to finally attend the Big Yellow Bird Bash this weekend, which of course you are expected to wear yellow. I never buy or make anything yellow. So I looked through my patterns and looked for fabric and decided to finally make the Chantilly by Colette. Love it!

I found a gorgeous yellow floral on white chiffon from Stylish Fabrics via Etsy. I’m not a big fan of wearing yellow, so I decided to get a floral instead of something solid yellow. The lining is white Bemberg rayon. Honestly, this fabric just makes you feel like a happy, sunny day.

I went ahead and did my usual FBA. I started with a 2″ on the bodice and realized it wouldn’t lengthen it as much as I wanted, so I did a 3″. Was perfect on my first try! Glad I used the lining, ;).

The rest of the pattern wasn’t adjusted for size, but I did kind of meld Versions 1 and 2. I wanted pockets (version 2), but I also wanted to use a chiffon (version 1). Basically I underlined the chiffon with the lining up through the pocket, then constructed the lining and shell separately. Took some time and was a bit of a struggle, but so worth it!

Love it when the insides are so beautiful, :).

I cut out my usual size 10. Due to my underlining technique the zipper didn’t go in quite as smoothly, but I made it work. Now the hem was a bit of work, but I made hemming the narrow hem of the shell so much easier. I serged the hemline, then I just rolled up the hem twice using the less than 1/4″ line of serging as my guide.

It’s perfect for spring! Now time to make my boyfriend’s yellow vest.

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Butterick 6019: Bodice Construction

Loving this dress! I’ve been taking my time with this one making sure the fit is absolutely right. I used Gertie’s adding an underwire to a bustier style top tuturial to add underwires that I took out of an old bra that didn’t fit anymore. It was a little tricky finding the best fit but what I ended up doing that worked really well was to lay the old bra on top of the bustier and trace the outline of it, then matched the underwires up with the outline. I was going to add additional boning but I have the cheap plastic kind and it was bending funny so just put in the 2 recommended by the pattern. Look at that pretty placement! You can’t see from the photo, but I have a layer of Pellon 950F ShirTailor interfacing lining the cups and then sew-in fleece interfacing on top of that. I didn’t put any interfacing on the bottom portions.

On the outer bodice front pieces I lined the cups with the same Pellon 950F interfacing and then used Pellon featherlight interfacing on the bottom sections. Essentially I lined the bra cups twice with the Pellon 950F (once on the outer fabric and once on the lining) with a layer of fleece lining inbetween them. This gives the top wonderful structure so I won’t need a bra at all with this dress, :). I opted to not put in a waiststay since everything is so structured and I’ll be attaching the halter top.

I made 3 muslins total, one using the original size 14 D-cup pieces with no adjustments, one making adjustments, and the final version. As can be seen by the two pieces below I ended up adding about an inch to the bottom cup pieces and about an inch to the top as well to ensure full coverage and excellent support. For sewing purposes I am a 34DD, I used the size 14 pieces.

And a photo of muslin #3 and then the final version. Perfect!

Due to this awesome pattern it’s hard to see all the line stitching on the bodice lining.

And complete! I had to adjust the band a little due to adding an overall 2″ to the bodice top and not adding any length to the band…oops! It all worked out. Also instead of understitching the lining I’m just putting “invisible” stitches to attach the lining to the outer bodice.

I also added a bit of a V to the front cup for visual aesthetics. This dress top is super supportive! And the fabric pattern is perfect. The dress is almost completed. Just the zipper, hem, and halter strap left… I am also using Gertie’s horsehair braid tutorial for the hem line. I selected 1/2″ wide polyester horsehair braid to add a little structure to the hem. Keeping the overall vibe of this dress more casual.

Shirring!

So I have finally had the chance to begin working on my very own Butterick 6019 version A Shaheen look a like dress, pattern by Gertie. Yay! I’ve spent 1 day making muslins of the top to ensure the proper fit ending up making 3 different ones but finally got it. I had to add about 2″ to the overall pattern to get the fit, support, and coverage I wanted. Then I played around with using just batting or adding interfacing and deciding to go with both, more details and photos in a future post, ;). Gertie’s blog has been wonderfully helpful. Using her adding underwire to a bustier tutorial. Still working on it. But I progressed enough to shirr the side pieces. I did some research after seeing people with Brother sewing machines can have some trouble. I came across this post by Tina referencing my Brother cs6000i specifically. And bingo! Worked out perfectly, :). This was my first attempt and I of course practiced on a scrap piece first. Then I wound up about 3 bobbins and shirred away. I just wound my bobbins on my machine like I would any other bobbin threading it through the guides. Dawn Nicole also had a great tutorial here that includes photos.

He is the first few rows. As Dawn clarified, ONLY WIND THE BOBBIN WITH ELASTIC and then use a regular top thread. After adjusting the tension on my bobbin (had no idea I could do this!) I threaded my machine and just eyeballed the rows. When using stitch setting 00 as long as I kept a little over a presser foot difference between rows they measures 1/2″ from each other so I would stitch another row in between to get the desired 1/4″ distances between rows. On the first piece I did about 10 rows before I realized I wasn’t leaving a 5/8″ seam allowance on the sides, oops! After I finished all the rows I tied off each end and then steam ironed over the piece so it would shrink up nicely. Perfect! Overall it took me about 2 hours to complete both panels. The sewing went quick, it was the tying that took awhile. It’s recommended to not back stitch the elastic. I was a little weary but overall it wasn’t very hard at all. Love the effect. Now I know how they do that for sundress tops, :).

Love this floral fabric pattern, absolutely perfect for a Shaheen look a like. And the fun part is I selected this fabric before even knowing that was his style, haha. Was just looking for a nice spring/summery floral.

As you can see side by side the shirred piece with the non-shirred piece it crinkles up nicely!

And a more detailed photo of the stitch lines.

Future Projects

I posted previously about all these patterns I have, well now I have some fabrics:

  

There have been so many beautiful creations online from this Gertie Butterick 6019 pattern.

 

This navy blue white floral fabric I picked up at Textile Fabrics Store‘s current sale will be a perfect spring/summer dress! They are having a close out sale on all fabrics 1 yard or more 50% off until they close their location in Nashville in June.

Then I discovered Gertie has a blog on how to add an underwire built in bra to this dress. Looks like I may need to dismantle an old bra, ;). Her tutorial on adding underwire can be found here. And her run down of the pattern with many other links here. Looks amazing!

  

 

  

And plans for two of these Butterick shirts. Both in view A but using long sleeves for the white and the length B sleeves for the plaid with added pockets of course. I loved Lladybird’s versions here, she’s made this a few times and every one looks amazing!

I’m still working on Simplicity 2860 pants, almost finished! I’ve added some pockets and just have the waistband and hems left. Never could quite get the back fit perfected. I think I’ll use size 14 average with some crotch depth and length corrections instead of the size 16 curvy. Crotch depth and length were good, maybe even a little short but the hips were much too wide for the size for me, I took them in a good inch overall and the back darts lay funny and just too much fabric across for me. One dart would be better I think.

  

I’ve done so much research on pants making and thus far none of the advice helped fix the baggy back pants issue. If any one has any advice for my future pair I’d appreciate it!