Ginger Bootcut Jeans

About a day before I took my short little vacation to San Francisco I finally made the second pair of jeans I had planned last year after I made my first pair. But you know how life gets, busy!

The pattern I used was Ginger Jeans pattern by Closet Case patterns. My first pair turned out pretty awesome but a little short and a little too big. I also used cheaper denim. This time I used Cone Mills denim purchased from Threadbare Fabrics. Amazing! I cut out a size smaller this time since I’ve lost some weight. I went with a size 10 waist graded to a size 12 hip. I basted the pieces together after installing the front pockets to try them on before doing all the top stitching. So glad I took the time to repeat this step. I ended up using the 5/8″ inseam for the waist but then only 1/4″ inseam for the rest. My thighs are big from all my running. Perfect fit!

I took off 2.5″ of the inseam at the knee of the pattern and then used a 1.5″ hem. The cuffs sit just off the floor, perfect for wearing with my running shoes. I only added a 1/2″ full butt adjustment this time, didn’t change the rise at all, and interfaced the waistband. The other change I made was to decrease the bell of the flares by 5″ each so they were only 19.5″ wide for more of a boot cut. Love the look. Very happy with the fit! Next time I will have a go at the high waist skinny jeans.

As always, very impressed with Closet Case patterns instructions. My fly turned out much better this second time around. And this Cone Mills denim is the bomb! They feel wonderful and barely bag out at all. I swear I wore these 4 days straight after I made them, ;).

Front View


Side View


Back view


Pretty proud of my back pockets, :). Used some free templates provided by Closet Case. Someone mentioned they look like Wonder Woman symbols so these are now my Wonder Woman jeans.

Ginger Flares

Ok, these were actually finished over a week ago but life has been a little crazy in my need to find a new car (stupid idiot hit me in a parking lot!). Found a car, yay! Wrapping up insurance, etc. So I finally have a minute to breathe and finish this post up, :).

I purchased some Theory stretch denim from Mood Fabrics back in December and have had plans to make a pair of Ginger Jeans for awhile but I kept putting the project off for fear. I’ve been attempting to make a pair of well fitting pants for awhile and have been getting much closer to a better fit and finally my fave pair of jeans wore out and had to be retired, :(. So, I overcame my reservations and finally printed out my Ginger Flares pattern, traced my pieces, made my fitting adjustments, and cut out all the pieces. I followed the recommendation of cutting each piece out individually, so this took some time. I probably spent a full day making my fitting adjustments and cutting pieces out. I did a little bit of paper pattern fitting, looked over and took measurements from the pair of jeans I loved, and transferred these over. I ended up adding 1/2″ rise to the front and back as well as a 1″ FBA, full butt adjustment along with 1/2″ to the back rise. I found Closet case File’s ebook Sewing Your Own Jeans to be super helpful as well as hew Ginger Jeans sewalong.

The whole process took me about a week working here and there. After I had all my pieces cut out I basted the main pieces together per the instructions to check the initial fit and decided I needed to let out the side seams from 5/8″ down to 3/8″ and take in the waistband about an inch. Definitely glad I did this part first! Now after wearing them a bit I don’t think I needed to take them out as the denim seems to have stretched as is typical. Next time I’ll leave them a tad tight, ;). Taking all the basting stitches out was time consuming but so worth it. I felt more confident in stitching my jeans together and applying all of the top stitching. I had a few issues with my top stitching whenever I had to back stitch it (caused loops on the other side) but really only a minor issue. Eventually I sorted out the proper tension needed.

I will say the top stitching took the longest but they look great. I sewed everything on my Brother cs6000i sewing machine with a jeans needle. I hammered down all my thicker seams and corners and had no issues sewing everything together, never even needed to use my jean-a-ma-jig.

Closet Case Files’ instructions for inserting the fly zipper are so amazing it made the process pretty easy and it looks perfect!

Jeans Front Fly

Adding the rivets went much more smoothly after I discovered my sewing machine had come with an awl, :). I used a rivets kit from jo-Ann’s which made the whole process super easy.

I decided to play with making my own jeans pocket design. I hand embroidered my initial J into the corner of each pocket and then drew a bit of a starburst pattern.

Overall, LOVE my new jeans!!! The back rise is the perfect amount of coverage for me, the thighs aren’t too tight, and just the overall fit is amazing. Definitely a project that makes me proud, :). They fit perfectly then grew about two sizes of course, but that’s what belts are for! :).

For the pockets I used up some of my pink guitar fabric.

Pockets

I serged all of my inside seams and then top stitched and reinforced as per the instructions. I did add an extra line of top stitching to the inside thighs as I liked the look better.

Front View

front view jeans

Back View

back view jeans

Only change I would make for next time is to hem the pants about 1/2″ longer. I may also make them more of a barely boot flare.