Vogue 8333

I finally made my suit jacket! I actually finished it a few weeks ago but things have been so crazy I haven’t had time to post about it. This was the trial version I had adjusted the pattern pieces and cut out last year. Took me awhile to 1) find 60″ wide nylon knit interfacing and 2) get the motivation. The pattern is Vogue 8333, a Claire Schaeffer pattern. She does such a wonderful job of explaining all the different steps that goes into this suit jacket. I made a size 14 with a 3″ full bust adjustment, in Version B with a few of the more couture techniques.

I used some cheap polyester tan striped suiting from Jo-Ann’s I had in my stash for another project, gorgeous stretch teal polyester charmeuse leftover from a belly dance costume I made, and a few purchased items like horsehair canvas, buttons, and interfacing. I didn’t use shoulder pads in this version. The idea was to make a trial of the jacket to check for any fitting issues before making my gorgeous couture version in this navy 100% wool suiting fabric and light grey silk I had purchased from our local fabric store last year.

Overall the fit is really good. I haven’t tried putting shoulder pads in it yet, but I feel that would resolve the back fitting issues. Overall I found the directions to be superb. First I cut out all of the pieces of fabric and interfacing and interfaced the appropriate pieces. Hand stitching the stay tape to the front pieces took awhile but looks great. I used some ribbon I had in my stash. Then I ironed them to smooth them out.

 

Putting together the pockets was very confusing to me using the ready to wear instructions but I figured it out after reading the couture method. Once I got clarification on that process they went together very easy and look great.

 

The other spot I struggled with was stitching the sleeve lining to the exterior fabric. I had quite a tough time with this and several swear words but I finally figured it out. The couture method looks a bit easier but because I already had everything together via the ready to wear route I couldn’t use the couture method. Love the color of the lining!

 

I will say that the collar construction steps were AMAZING! This collar turned out perfect! And don’t worry, I took out the basting stitches at the edge there, ;). She has you construct the color before you even attach it to the jacket pieces.

 

Close ups of the inner details.

 

And voila! A beautiful new suit jacket to go with the skirt I had made last year, :). In the photos I am wearing a cowl tank I had made with So Sew Easy’s Cowl Neck Top pattern which can be purchased for $5.95 here. Looks perfect with the jacket lining! So there are a few fitting issues here and there but overall I think it turned out really well. Please excuse the skirt wrinkles! I had been wearing it all day and I’ve gained about a size since I made it so it is a bit small.

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Future Couture Suit Jacket and Bra Making Plans

  
So I’ve had both Vogue 8333 and 8543 in my pattern stash for some time. I even had the fabric picked out and ordered for 8543, but then the online store didn’t really have the fabric and the order was cancelled, :(. Well our local Textile Fabrics is still having their now moving sale (moving not closing now, yay!) with all fabrics 60% off! So I found a gorgeous navy wool suiting fabric, light gray silk lining, and grayish silk organza for the underlining. And my future plans changed. Now I want to make the Vogue 8333 version A couture suit jacket paired with the Vogue 8543 skirt. I think they will work well together and just pray I have enough of the wool! Original plan of the jacket and skirt of 8543 only required 3.25 yards and I got 3.5 to have a little extra. The new plan requires 3 yards and 5/8 yard, 1/8 more than I have. Hoping I have enough! I usually don’t use the full allotment, so fingers crossed!

The navy wool and light gray lining:  

First step: FBA adjustment and pattern trial. I went with a size 14 as Vogue tends to run larger and I preferred a more fitted suit jacket. As my upper bust is 34, I added the 2″ B cup pattern allotment and got 36″. Size 14 uses a 36″ bust so perfect. Then I just needed to add the difference between my full bust (39″) and the pattern full bust (36″) which is 3″, or 1.5″ per side. I matched the center front of the front pattern piece with my center front and the shoulder seam with my shoulder seam so I could mark my bust apex on the pattern. Please disregard my terrible drawing skills!

  
Once I had this new spot, I then drew a vertical line parallel with the front center line through the new apex and a horizontal line parallel with the waist line through the new apex. Now I had 4 quadrants which I labeled.

  
I cut apart the lines leaving a hinge at the shoulder seam and the bottom hem line. As this piece used princess seams I also separated the side front piece into two pieces through the waist line but leaving the paper attached just a bit at the side as a hinge. I labeled these 4 (left top), 3 (right top, 2 (left bottom, and 1 (right bottom). I first taped down quadrant 3 to a piece of tracing paper. Then I measured out a vertical line to the left side of this quadrant 3 piece 1.5″ out and a horizontal line to the bottom 1.5″ down. I matched up quadrant 1 (bottom right piece) to the horizontal line keeping it parallel to the top right piece and taped it down. Then I moved Quadrant 4 out so the bottom right corner matched up with the vertical line while staying even with quadrant 3 along the bottom. Then matched up quadrant 2 to both the vertical and horizontal lines keeping it parallel to both the top left piece and the bottom right piece. Then did the same with the side piece. After everything was placed correctly I taped everything down.

  
Then I pinned all the seam allowances together to “try” half the jacket on. Pretty good for! I’ll have a lot of couture methods to learn and sort out as I go along with this project. I’m excited! 

Better pics taken while on my dress double:   

   

The other major project on my list is: making my first bra!

After my disappointment of being unable to find a strapless bra at Victoria’s Secret that fit right I decided to finally delve into this realm.

I’ve purchased the Kindle version of Orange Lingerie founder Norma Loehr’s book Demystifying Bra Fitting and Construction. So far has been full of super useful advice. I have plans to purchase her newest pattern, the Boylston bra as well. I feel that this is the best pattern for my 34DD size and best option for attempting a strapless version. Still researching fabrics, etc. 

 

Obviously I have my work cut out for me for a bit, ;).

 

Future Projects

I posted previously about all these patterns I have, well now I have some fabrics:

  

There have been so many beautiful creations online from this Gertie Butterick 6019 pattern.

 

This navy blue white floral fabric I picked up at Textile Fabrics Store‘s current sale will be a perfect spring/summer dress! They are having a close out sale on all fabrics 1 yard or more 50% off until they close their location in Nashville in June.

Then I discovered Gertie has a blog on how to add an underwire built in bra to this dress. Looks like I may need to dismantle an old bra, ;). Her tutorial on adding underwire can be found here. And her run down of the pattern with many other links here. Looks amazing!

  

 

  

And plans for two of these Butterick shirts. Both in view A but using long sleeves for the white and the length B sleeves for the plaid with added pockets of course. I loved Lladybird’s versions here, she’s made this a few times and every one looks amazing!

I’m still working on Simplicity 2860 pants, almost finished! I’ve added some pockets and just have the waistband and hems left. Never could quite get the back fit perfected. I think I’ll use size 14 average with some crotch depth and length corrections instead of the size 16 curvy. Crotch depth and length were good, maybe even a little short but the hips were much too wide for the size for me, I took them in a good inch overall and the back darts lay funny and just too much fabric across for me. One dart would be better I think.

  

I’ve done so much research on pants making and thus far none of the advice helped fix the baggy back pants issue. If any one has any advice for my future pair I’d appreciate it!

 

Vogue 1169: Finished Suit

Hello there!  I’ve had this suit finished for about a month now but am just now getting to writing about it, ;).  It’s been a busy month!  The suit turned out fantastic!  I just love it and have plans to make another variation of it with pants and then turning the suit top into a vest.

This is the suit front:

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Front view of Vogue 1169 suit

And the back:

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Back view of Vogue 1169 suit

This was my first attempt at making a suit for myself and the second advanced pattern I’ve tried, so I was very happy with the results.  The most difficult task for me was fitting the pattern to myself.  I first adjusted the pattern pieces, then cut out a muslim mock-up before sewing the actual fabric together.  It was a few extra steps but definitely worth the additional time!

As for this current project I’ve heard stories on how difficult piping can be but I found it to not be too bad.  Granted, my sewing machine does not like sewing piping, or zippers for that matter, but it is a basic Singer Simple, so not that surprised.  I ended up hand-sewing all the piping.  Now you may be saying “Oh wow!” but for me hand-sewing can be quite relaxing and definitely less stressful than fighting my machine!  I also added contrasting hand-pick stitching around the back of the suit collar to top stitch the facing into place.  I also love my fabric covered buttons and how well they bring the contrasting pink fabric together.

I did have a little trouble with putting the piping into the welted pockets but overall feel it turned out very nice.  The sleeves were very easy to do once you sort out which way to fold the fabric.  And the living matches my accents making it gorgeous on the inside as well as the outside.

Below are some photos of the suit detailing:

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Inside of suitImage

Buttons, pick stitching, and piping!
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Suit collar detailing with piping

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Sleeve with piping and pick-stitching details

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Front welt pockets with piping and pick stitching

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Back view of the skirt showing lining and pick stitching