Dahlia in Polka Dots

This is my 3rd make of the Colette Patterns Dahlia dress, love this pattern, :). I used version 1 again, my my other make is posted here. This time I chose not to line it and used a pretty navy blue with white polka dot polyester silky fabric from Jo-Ann’s. I also added pockets! Used the in seam pocket piece and instructions from Gertie’s Ultimate Dress Book.

I used the size 10 pattern pieces with a  3″ FBA, more details on my original post with link above. Other than adding the pockets, nothing new to add. You can read about using Gertie’s pocket pattern and instructions more when I added them to my Wren dress here. I made my own bias tape again which was a little trickier with this fabric but I still managed to make it work, :). I wanted to use my bias tape maker but it was not designed to work with this particular type of fabric. So I just sewed it on using a 1/4″ seam allowance and folded it over the seam. A little trickier but not too time consuming.

The other major change I made was to add pockets! Every dress possible should have pockets, :). I kind of forgot about the side invisible zipper though… It turned out fine though, even if is a bit more difficult to get over my chest, I manage just fine. I had to cut off about 3 inches of the invisible zipper. But, the pockets work and are functional!

And of course, the photos, :).

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Seamwork Ida Dress with Optional Cut-Out


As I mention every time I post a pic and review of a Seamwork Magazine pattern, I subscribe to their monthly magazine/patterns. I just can’t sing their praises enough and think everyone should take a look. Basically, for $6 per month, you get 2 credits to use towards any of their Seamwork patterns (1 credit = 1 pattern), or, they started allowing you to use the accumulated credits to use towards Colette patterns! With Colette’s patterns, you can use 3 Seamwork credits to purchase a PDF version of any of Colette’s patterns. The magazine articles are available to peruse for free, the $6 gets you 2 of their awesome patterns. I can never state enough how amazing I think this is. They come out with 2 new patters with every issue, but you can use the credits for ANY of their patterns. If you use my code, we both win, :). I get a free month and you get half off of your first month with the option to cancel at any time and still keep all of your patterns, not that I am canceling anytime soon, ;). Just click here! The 2 patterns this month are a basic t-shirt and pencil skirt. Last month was the Ida and Willie.

And now they offer so many awesome additions like a visual fit guide so you can better visualize which changes or adjustments you may need to make.

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This review is over the Ida using the bonus pattern pieces for the back cut out. LOVE it!!! This dress came together super quick. The only changes I made were to skip adding the side slit, grading from a medium to a large at the hip line, and  I added a 1.5″ full bust adjustment using Jennifer Lauren’s tutorial.

I had no problem getting all of these pieces cut out of my 2 yards of 60″ wide scuba knit from Jo-Ann’s. This Nicole Miller fabric was just too perfect to pass up.

Other than the two adjustments mentioned (FBA, sizing, and no side slit), I made zero other changes, I didn’t even nip or tuck anything when I put the dress together. This is why I love Seamwork patterns so much, they are fairly quick and easy to put together and still look really great. I get so many compliments on all of my Seamwork pattern projects. With my new super busy schedule, it’s nice being able to still make a few things throughout the month.

And the photos of course! It was super freezing cold today, 18 degrees!!! But I got my kind boyfriend to quickly take a couple out on our deck to I could finally write this post up, :). The things I do for fashion, ;).


Hollyburn Skirt

Yay, I finally purchased the Hollyburn skirt pattern from Sewaholic patterns and it was as wonderful as I had hoped it would be, :). The pattern is listed as being for beginners and it truly was a breeze to work through. The instructions are fantastic, the photo illustrations very helpful, and the pattern lines are just perfect. I went with Version C minus the button tabs.

I decided to make a size 10 after measuring my waist at 30″. I did end up taking the waistband out about 1″ so maybe next time I will make up a size 12. Other than that and cutting the skirt front out on the fold, I made zero alterations and didn’t even make a mock up. I usually do with new patterns but I was pretty sure this would fit from my experiences with the Thurlow trousers I had made previously from this designer.

The skirt fabric I purchased from a local vendor here in Nashville named Moondance Sister. It is a 100% cotton tapestry hand dyed in India. Loved the pattern and knew it would make the perfect skirt. The Hollyburn skirt had just enough curve to make it work out perfectly. I even managed to make the slip pockets match up with the pattern pretty well, :). I also decided to cut the skirt front out on the fold rather than 2 pieces per the pattern design in order to not break up the pattern as much as possible.

I decided to line the skirt to make it easier to wear over leggings. I neglected to trace back in the side pocket cutouts on the front skirt piece though, oops! It ended up working out just fine. I attached the lining to the skirt front at the top and sides through the pockets, then stitched the sides of the lining separate from the sides of the skirt from the pockets to the hemline. I also shortened the lining about 1″ from the exterior skirt hemline.

Here is an inside view of the skirt lining and the pockets.

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The other adjustments I made were to insert an invisible zipper (good thing since I had to let out the back about 1/2″ on each side) and putting an hook and eye in the top. I plan to add belt loops later but may leave it as is.

And more pics!

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Pockets!!!!

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Back view. Back seam is almost invisible, :).

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Butterick 6143 Version C

I’ve had Butterick 6143 for awhile and finally decided what to make it with! I made my Vogue Cape a few years ago (details here) but I just never wore it. The 100% super soft amazing quality wool I had used was too good to let waste away, so I took several days to tediously unpick all of the panels, iron them, and strategically place all of my pattern pieces to make my Butterick coat!

Here is the before pic of the cloak and the after of my coat, :).

It took a bit, but I managed to eke out just enough to make the coat minus the front facings and collar, so I decided to make those with faux fur. Luckily I rarely throw scrap fabric away and still had a nice bit of the wool left uncut, :).

Overall the coat construction went smoothly and pretty easy. Made a mock up first, highly recommend! I ended up taking the shoulder seams in about an inch on both sides and down the back.

I also didn’t have quite enough fabric for the one piece sleeves so I re-drafted them into 2 piece sleeves using Thread’s tutorial on converting symmetrical sleeves. Worked out perfect! Because I interlined the entire coat with Thinsulate I only used a 1/2″ seam on the sleeve portions.

Look at those sleeve lines, so nice!

Speaking of interlining, it took forever! But worth it for the extra warmth. I sewed each piece onto the outer coat pieces though it is recommended to sew them onto the lining pieces. So I had to deal with some fuzzies. Per the instructions I put the quilted side facing the outside. Then the lining was Bemberg rayon and the faux fur is from Jo-Ann’s. I got wolf, so soft!

Next up: the faux fur… overall not too bad until I got to the button holes. I cut it very carefully to prevent fuzz flying everywhere. My machine did well until the button holes. It struggled big time even after trimming down the fur around. One worked well, the other 2 on the front facing portion not so much. Took me THREE hours of unpicking and finally breaking down and making the holes myself without my auto one step.

A pic of the one button hole that looked good that the machine worked for. You can also see some blue ribbon on the side. To tame down the fur I trimmed it down and then put a ribbon over it to look nice and be functional.


As for attaching the lining to the outer shell I followed the directions but edge stitched the entire outline as well so everything would lay nice and flat. As for sizing, I made a 16 with the D cup pieces. My measurements are 41-31-41. Usually I have to do a FBA but not for this coat. And roomy enough for a light weight sweater underneath, :).

And voila, a gorgeous fall coat! LOVE the color and faux fur accent. The gold buttons were gifted to me.



And a pic of the insides. I really need to make some tags to put in my handmade items. I used Bemberg rayon lining.

PUG Alison and Jalie 2796

I made my own sports bra!!! And it fits pretty well, :). So tired of spending so much in sports bras from the store so I’m pretty excited, :).

The sports bra pattern is Pinup Girls Alison. It’s a front close sports bra which is awesome, no wrangling it over my head.

The actual construction is pretty simple and easy. Only adjustments I made were to take in the sides about 1/2″ on each side and use a 1″ wide elastic for the band since I didn’t have any 1.5″ wide on hand. The wickable black exterior fabric and pre-molded bra cups I got from Bra Makers Supply.

Overall I really like how it turned out and fits. Next time I would make the arm holes a bit larger as they are a bit tight. Next time I am going to try Green Style Creations Endurance Bra once I get my supplies.

The Jalie running skirt was also pretty straight forward as this is my 3rd make, first one not adding my customized back skirt pleats. I like to add a 2″ wide elastic to the waistband and hemmed everything 3/8″ instead of 3/4″. The fabric is this amazing wickable Under Armour brand from our local sewing store.

I’ve run 6 miles in both of these and they are pretty great. The shorts didn’t ride up at all and the sports bra delivered minimal bounce.

And…pics!


And best part? Pockets on each side!!!

Vogue 8333

I finally made my suit jacket! I actually finished it a few weeks ago but things have been so crazy I haven’t had time to post about it. This was the trial version I had adjusted the pattern pieces and cut out last year. Took me awhile to 1) find 60″ wide nylon knit interfacing and 2) get the motivation. The pattern is Vogue 8333, a Claire Schaeffer pattern. She does such a wonderful job of explaining all the different steps that goes into this suit jacket. I made a size 14 with a 3″ full bust adjustment, in Version B with a few of the more couture techniques.

I used some cheap polyester tan striped suiting from Jo-Ann’s I had in my stash for another project, gorgeous stretch teal polyester charmeuse leftover from a belly dance costume I made, and a few purchased items like horsehair canvas, buttons, and interfacing. I didn’t use shoulder pads in this version. The idea was to make a trial of the jacket to check for any fitting issues before making my gorgeous couture version in this navy 100% wool suiting fabric and light grey silk I had purchased from our local fabric store last year.

Overall the fit is really good. I haven’t tried putting shoulder pads in it yet, but I feel that would resolve the back fitting issues. Overall I found the directions to be superb. First I cut out all of the pieces of fabric and interfacing and interfaced the appropriate pieces. Hand stitching the stay tape to the front pieces took awhile but looks great. I used some ribbon I had in my stash. Then I ironed them to smooth them out.

 

Putting together the pockets was very confusing to me using the ready to wear instructions but I figured it out after reading the couture method. Once I got clarification on that process they went together very easy and look great.

 

The other spot I struggled with was stitching the sleeve lining to the exterior fabric. I had quite a tough time with this and several swear words but I finally figured it out. The couture method looks a bit easier but because I already had everything together via the ready to wear route I couldn’t use the couture method. Love the color of the lining!

 

I will say that the collar construction steps were AMAZING! This collar turned out perfect! And don’t worry, I took out the basting stitches at the edge there, ;). She has you construct the color before you even attach it to the jacket pieces.

 

Close ups of the inner details.

 

And voila! A beautiful new suit jacket to go with the skirt I had made last year, :). In the photos I am wearing a cowl tank I had made with So Sew Easy’s Cowl Neck Top pattern which can be purchased for $5.95 here. Looks perfect with the jacket lining! So there are a few fitting issues here and there but overall I think it turned out really well. Please excuse the skirt wrinkles! I had been wearing it all day and I’ve gained about a size since I made it so it is a bit small.

Wren again

As you have probably noticed, the Wren pattern by Colette Patterns is probably one of my favorites, ;). I love that if given a full day I can start from cut to finish and complete this dress within a day or in the case of this one, 1.5 afternoons. And it’s so versatile!

This was my third Wren, second doing the version 2. This time I took off the 3″ of length I had added to the skirt but otherwise made it with all the other changes I had made to the pattern detailed here. I cut the back skirt portion on the fold like the front skirt. One less seam to stitch, ;).

The fabric is a gorgeous floral from Girl Charlee. I saw it and it was instant love and knew it would make a perfect floral wren #2, ;). And it did! I also like the just above the knee length. Super cute! And as with my other two, I pick stitched the faux wrap front sections together to prevent an accidental peep show.

Almost forgot, I made one other change, I did the pockets a little differently following the tutorial from Gertie in her book Gertie’s Ultimate Dress Book. Basically I used the pocket piece from this book but you can use any side seam pocket piece from any pattern. I placed mine about 1 3/4″ from the waist seam.
1st I stitched the pocket pieces right sides together to the skirt front and back at each side. I used a zig zag stitch and stitched just within the 3/8″ seam allowance. Then I pressed the pocket out (#2). After which I pinned the front skirt side to the back skirt side and around each pocket as shown in #3 before stitching them together using the full 3/8″ seam allowance (#4). After this you can leave as is or serge the seams. I discovered cutting into the corner of the top and bottom of each pocket made serving a bit better. Then you turn everything right side out, push the pocket in, and give everything a good press.


And there you have it, a pretty Wren with pockets!


Definitely the new fave!