Hollyburn Skirt

Yay, I finally purchased the Hollyburn skirt pattern from Sewaholic patterns and it was as wonderful as I had hoped it would be, :). The pattern is listed as being for beginners and it truly was a breeze to work through. The instructions are fantastic, the photo illustrations very helpful, and the pattern lines are just perfect. I went with Version C minus the button tabs.

I decided to make a size 10 after measuring my waist at 30″. I did end up taking the waistband out about 1″ so maybe next time I will make up a size 12. Other than that and cutting the skirt front out on the fold, I made zero alterations and didn’t even make a mock up. I usually do with new patterns but I was pretty sure this would fit from my experiences with the Thurlow trousers I had made previously from this designer.

The skirt fabric I purchased from a local vendor here in Nashville named Moondance Sister. It is a 100% cotton tapestry hand dyed in India. Loved the pattern and knew it would make the perfect skirt. The Hollyburn skirt had just enough curve to make it work out perfectly. I even managed to make the slip pockets match up with the pattern pretty well, :). I also decided to cut the skirt front out on the fold rather than 2 pieces per the pattern design in order to not break up the pattern as much as possible.

I decided to line the skirt to make it easier to wear over leggings. I neglected to trace back in the side pocket cutouts on the front skirt piece though, oops! It ended up working out just fine. I attached the lining to the skirt front at the top and sides through the pockets, then stitched the sides of the lining separate from the sides of the skirt from the pockets to the hemline. I also shortened the lining about 1″ from the exterior skirt hemline.

Here is an inside view of the skirt lining and the pockets.

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The other adjustments I made were to insert an invisible zipper (good thing since I had to let out the back about 1/2″ on each side) and putting an hook and eye in the top. I plan to add belt loops later but may leave it as is.

And more pics!

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Pockets!!!!

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Back view. Back seam is almost invisible, :).

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Thurlow Shorts!

I’ve seen the Thurlow Trousers pattern by Sewaholic roaming the internet and fell in love with the style and the lines. I decided to start by making a pair of shorts, red of course! I used to avoid the color red but now I actually like it. I liked her pattern because it allowed for more room in the hips, butt, and thighs. For once the thighs weren’t too tight and I only had to make a few other changes, :).

I ended up adding a 1/2″ full tummy adjustment, a new one for me! I just did the simple slash and spread method and it worked out great, front looks fantastic and the pockets don’t bulge out, :). I thought about adding 1/2″ of rise to the back but didn’t this time, I think I will next time. I did deepen the crotch curve by about 1/3″ like I usually need to. You can see in the photo below that the back just needs a little more adjusting to be perfect. The welt pockets are perfect though!

shorts back

 

I spent so much time on the welt pockets but it was worth it, they turned out perfect! I do every pocket in the same process. First I draw the placement lines on both sides of the fabric I am attaching the pockets to, then I stitch on each welt measuring and drawing the stitching lines. In this case each welt was supposed to be 1/2″ tall so I drew a stitching line at 1/2″ from the good side (not the unfinished side). Then I attached the pocket bag to the bottom welt, slash the opening of the pocket, and pull the pocket and edges of the welts through. When slashing the cutting line, make sure you cut the corners all the way to the stitching line but not actually cutting the stitching line, that’s how I reduce any crazy puckering. Lauren at Lladybird has an excellent visual tutorial for this particular pattern here as part of her entire Thurlow Trousers sew along. I also set up everything the way I want it and iron the welts down before stitching the triangle pieces to the pocket just to make sure everything looks good and I don’t need to cut into the corners more or move the welts around, etc.

Close up of one of the welts, :).

red shorts welt pocket

 

For the insides I found this beautiful light yellow and grey cotton print, perfect match for the red shorts. Makes me happy every time I see it. I went ahead and interfaced both the exterior waistband and inside waistband pieces as per Sewaholic’s instructions, Lauren with Lladybird only interfaces one side of the waistband. Honestly that is my usual method but I think the double interfacing feels fine. For the pockets other than referencing Lladybird’s tutorial on the back welts, I just followed the pattern instructions. The front slash pockets were pretty easy.

Again, how gorgeous is that lining fabric?!?! I love the added feature of the back extension, the extra wide seam back there. It allows for easier adjustment of the waist band for gaining or loosing weight. Genius!

inside red shorts

 

I also referenced Lladybird’s fly zipper tutorial. The instructions given by Sewaholic are fine if you are super familiar with the process but Lladybird gives a bit more detail and photos which always helps me. Again, I used her sew a long A LOT, was an amazing help. And voila, look at that perfect fly front zipper! The instructions call for a 4″ zipper and I found one, but it seemed a bit short so I used a 6″ zipper and cut off the extra.

fly front zipper

And more detailed photo of the other side of the fly front zipper. Don’t mind my crappy stitching job of the button, had a temporary brain fart on how to properly sew on a button with 4 holes. Also, I need to go back and tack down the 3rd side of my hook closure.

other side of the fly

 

The belt loops were a little long, I ended up cutting each of mine to be a total of 3 1/4″ long and attached them as per the instructions stitching at the edge of the top and edge of the bottom. I stitched 1/8″ away from the edges. For sizing references, I went with the size 12. I have a 32-33″ waist and 42-43″ hips depending on the day and month, ;). For the fabric I bought some 3% spandex/97% cotton twill fabric from Jo-Ann’s and 100% cotton quilting fabric for the lining.

All in all these are my new favorite shorts and I need to make many more pairs. I also have lots of fabric to make a few pairs of work pants. I think I finally found my go to pants pattern! I love my Clovers but I always appreciate a pair of dress pants and shorts with a fly front zipper, belt loops, and slash front pockets, :). Other than still working out the minor fitting issues in the back I think they are pretty fantastic!

red shorts front

 

And a side view:

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So yeah, I pretty much want to wear these shorts every day… ;). I see a pair of Ankara print shorts in my future and a pair of silk/cotton linen blend trousers for work just to start…